Author Topic: Johnny's Guide to fitting a 2.0 16v engine varient into a Carlton/Senator  (Read 26037 times)

Johnny A

  • A 2.0 Carlton that chases Lotus' finest about?
  • Wanted: Life
  • ******
  • Posts: 2344
  • 2 Carltons, 6 litres, 10 cylinders and one turbo
In the past few months I have had more and more private messages asking about my 2.0 twin cam engine conversions and how they are done, I can only assume the cost of maintaining and running a straight 6 engine is causing owners to think outside the box a little.

So instead of repeating myself all the time I thought I would make a copy of my findings here!
To date I have done two twin cam conversions, a C20LET (2.0 16v 'redtop' turbo found in the Calibra and Cavaliers) and more recently a Z20LET (2.0 16v 'ecotec' turbo found in the Astra-G turbo variants). Both have their merits and downfalls but I will explain what they are later on. If your going for a turbo engine please read the C20XE guide too as some references are made to that guide.

Please note that this guide is based on my experience and knowledge from fitting twin cam engines into my 1989 3.0 12v Carlton GSi, the guide is as accurate as I could make it but if you feel something isn't correct please feel free to PM me.

Disclaimer and words from me:
These guides are as accurate as I can make them, but they are far from perfect. If you decide to embark on fitting a 2.0 twin cam into your Carlton you will need a lot of experience working on cars and be able to think outside the box when problems arise.
The 20XE conversion is pretty easy, in fact it's hardly any worse than a factory to factory engine conversion. After that it gets progressively more difficult to the point where the Z20LET conversion is for the utmost hardcore modifier who has comprehensive knowledge of every aspect of this type of car and the engine itself - to my knowledge I am the only person to fit a Z20LET into a Carlton and I suspect due to it's difficulty and the rarity of this wonderful design of car it will be the only one ever - lets hope I don't smash it up!

Before I list the engines and what to buy you need to consider the carlton/senator shell you have or plan to use:
Although I used a GSi 12v shell I would strongly recommend the use of a 1.8 or 2.0 8v shell for the following reasons:
All the conversion parts you need are already installed (Gearbox, engine mounts, coolant pipes)
The rear gearbox mount is in the correct place (S6 models have the bolt holes further back)
The radiator is slightly narrower allowing turbo intercooler pipes to pass either side (relevant only on turbo conversions)
The only real downside to using a 2.0 shell is the following:
Smaller front brakes
Smaller weaker rear drive assembly (smaller prop flanges, smaller diff and none were an LSD type, smaller CV's, half shafts, hubs and flanges)

All guides are based on using a 2.0 8v Carlton as a shell

First off I will start with the easy conversion:
Fitting a late C20XE (150bhp 2.0 16v 'Redtop' engine)

Before getting started its important to know that you will be shooting yourself in the foot if you don't pick up a late C20XE engine, there are several key changes made on the late 'XE' engine but the one we are interested in the lack of a distributor! This means no bulkhead fouling issues. Here is the difference:


As long as you source a late XE (found in late Cav GSi's and a few SRi16v's, some Calibras and some Astra-F GSi's) the conversion is actually dead easy.

Shopping list:
Late C20XE engine (doh)
Calibra/Cavalier 2.5 V6 flywheel and clutch with new flywheel bolts
2.0 8v one-piece sump gasket/baffle plate (from a Carlton, not a Cavalier/Calibra/Astra/Anything front wheel drive)
Crankshaft needle bearing (GM part number: 90105743)
Omega ECU/relay box (replaces the Carlton's washer bottle) (optional but recommend)
Suitable airbox substitute (Most people would just use a cone air filter)
Oil cooler from donor car OR X20XEV oil filter thread tube (if you don't want to run a cooler)
C20XE/LET power steering pump
Aftermarket electric radiator fan

What you need to do:
Ok I am not doing a step-by-step guide to a conversion, if your not a competent mechanic who doesn't know about general engine swaps walk away now.

Ok most of the C20XE conversion is a straight forward engine-in, engine-out affair, but here are the things you need to swap over or alter:
The 8v sump and pickup need transferring to the XE, make sure to use the 8v sump bolts too as they are shorter
8v engine mounts need transferring
Transfer all the 8v water pipes to the XE, you should find they all fit but there is a water way that comes out the end of the head on the XE, plumb this into the heater matrix and the other end into the main plastic conduit under the inlet manifold
Transfer the 8v alternator/starter loom to the XE
Replace the XE flywheel with the 2.5 V6 unit and fit clutch too (why the V6 flywheel?? Well the V6 flywheel sticks out from the engine about an inch more than the front wheel drive XE unit, this matches the Carlton's RWD 8v unit which in turn puts the clutch in the correct position inside the gearbox bell housing)
Take the needle bearing and press it into the end of the XE crankshaft using a suitable sized socket and a rubber mallet.
Once you have done those things you can bolt up the gearbox and install the assembly into the carlton shell and bolt it up on its mounts.
Note: The bottom of the inlet MAY clip the steering box, there are plenty of subtle inlet manifold variations. Some catch, others clear (just). If you need to, grind some metal off the inlet and using big ass washers add height to the O/S engine mount until it clears.
You will need to take a grinder and welder to the exhaust downpipe to fit
The Late XE coilpack normally would sit on the end of the cylinder head, it won't now. Make up a suitable bracket either bolted to the bulkhead or to the engine somewhere safe.
Fit the C20XE/LET power steering pump, the pressure outlet like will need tweaking to fit. The intake hose will need replacing, use oil resistant pipe (ebay)
Use an XE throttle cable, it has to do some tight turns so if its old and half dead I suggest a new one.
Install the engine loom, you will notice the ECU now hangs in front of the engine, if you have opted to buy the Omega relay box put it in here and use a small universal washer bottle (ebay for these). If you haven't good luck and remember that these ECU's are NOT weather proof!!
The engine loom will need a couple of wires extending to mate with the carlton's loom, these are main +ive feed, ignition +ive, various sensor outputs for the dashboard and a single wire for the fuel pump (red with a blue stripe).
The 8v airbox is useless here, in fact I can't think of any Carlton airboxs that will do the job. So a K&N will do!
All XE's came with an oil cooler, the XE oil cooler fits pretty well with some manipulation. If you can't be bothered as your not using the car for track days or towing, you can remove the XE's oil cooler sandwich plate and install an X20XEV threaded tube in its place. The oil filter will now screw directly onto the XE's oil pump housing.
As the XE was never rear wheel drive orientated your factory viscous fan needs to be ditched, you need an electric fan attached to the radiator and also a sensor (temp controlled fan switch). These kits are all over the net but I recommend you buy a good make like Kenlowe or Pacet, some cheap fans are next to useless at pumping air over the radiator fins.
You will also find the XE dipstick is in an awkward place, but it can easily be bent slightly.

Thats it!!

Fitting a C20LET engine (204bhp 'Redtop turbo' engine)

Now your talking! An engine that produces the same power (but more torque) than GM's biggest Carlton/Senator engine! Not forgetting its lighter than the 24v lump.... and can be tuned with 280bhp with as little as 200!

This is the XE's bigger brother, but most of the engine itself looks identical. Don't let that make you feel better, the C20LET has two major issues that are caused by the design:
1) All C20LET's have distributors, these cannot be fitted in their original position as there is a bulkhead in the way. Three ways around this are fitting a 1.8 8v remote distributor found on mantas and a few others from the same era) Pic:

You also need to note that you need the camshaft pulley from the same engine, it WILL fit the LET exhaust camshaft but all C20LET's use a late-type cambelt design (same as the late-XE) which is different. To make the remote distributor work you need to retro-fit an early XE cambelt setup (cam sprockets, bottom crank sprocket, all pullies, tensioner, belt, water pump yada yada). In addition MOST of these remote dizzys use vacuum advance, this is no good, you need a remote dizzy with a hall sensor (little 2-pin plug mounted on the dizzy housing). Yes they are fooking rare!!!
The second way around this issue is to reverse-mount the original C20LET dizzy onto the engine at the cambelt end!! This is the method I used but it was a pig! Basically the dizzy will run backward just fine, mounting it perfectly is a ballache and you need a special dizzy drive adapter made up. If anyone wants my old kit I still have it.
Pic:

The third option is to ditch the C20LET management and either go aftermarket or use a late XE loom and ECU with a piggyback ECU for boost and ignition management, this is actually the least fiddly but can be costly.

Headache number 2) The turbo, everyone loves a nice turbo... apart from when trying to fit it into a Carlton/Senator! Damn thing fouls the N/S engine mount in a BIG way. I have a picture here which shows you why:

You can just about see what is left of the standard N/S mount, I have added this crazy arrangement to move the mounting point forward to clear the turbo. This also means you need to relocate the car subframe bracket. Grinder and welder get used a lot!
Headache number 2, part 2) The turbo also comes VERY close to the ABS pump, I recommend buying some head sheild material (ebay or demon tweaks) to protect the unit from heat.

Shopping list:
C20LET engine
Calibra/Cavalier 2.5 V6 flywheel and clutch with new flywheel bolts (standard V6 will handle C20LET fine)
2.0 8v one-piece sump gasket/baffle plate (from a Carlton, not a Cavalier/Calibra/Astra/Anything front wheel drive)
Crankshaft needle bearing (GM part number: 90105743)
Omega ECU/relay box (replaces the Carlton's washer bottle) (optional but recommend)
Suitable airbox substitute (Most people would just use a cone air filter)
Oil cooler from donor car (I do not recommend bypassing this on a turbo car)
Aftermarket electric radiator fan
Turbo downpipe mating flange (machine shop can knock one of these up, or buy my old one)
A suitable front mounted intercooler (Ford Sierra Cosworth unit is perfect and cheap)
Suitable boost pipes and silicone hoses (most pipework will be 2.5" I/D, however the turbo outlet is 2" I/D)
Suitable throttle body 'top hat'
Some additional small coolant hoses to feed coolant through the turbo
C20LET/XE power steering pump

What you need to do:
In addition to everything from fitting an XE you will also need:
Well you know about the dizzy and having to cook up some sort of N/S engine mount workaround so I won't repeat myself, but there is more that is needed
The downpipe you will need to make yourself using a purpose cut flange which bolts directly to the turbo (I seem to remember one of the securing bolts is really hard to do up/undo)
Making up boost pipework and securing the intercooler in front of the radiator
Using suitable sized coolant hose from your local motor factors you need to run the small pipe on the top of the radiator to the turbo, then from the turbo to the expansion bottle.
You need to install the C20LET/XE power steering pump, the 2.0 8v PAS lines can easily be manipulated to fit

Other stuff you need to know about:
The factory C20LET top hat (the pipe that bolts directly to the throttle body) is facing the wrong way, so a replacement item is needed. XE uprated top hats offer a solution (see picture on reverse dizzy mounting for one example):

This plate is for XE conversions in corsas mainly, it uses an X20XEV inlet pipe and will do the job fine (again I have both these items left over if anyone wants them)

The C20LET is highly tunable, in standard trim the 2.0 8v carlton gearbox, 2.5 V6 clutch and drive system can handle the power. Beyond standard power you will get things breaking, lets see what you need to do about it:
Clutch: Beyond 240bhp expect the standard V6 clutch to start complaining, a simple organic uprated one will do fine for up to 300bhp
Gearbox: The 8v isn't a bad little box but over 250bhp I think you will see issues, luckily an R25-28 found in the Omega V6's is almost identical in size and fitment!! Additional changes are needed when using the R25-28, these are:
The Omega box uses a hydraulic clutch actuation, you can choose to retrofit a hydraulic system into your car OR cannibalise the 8v box for its cable system (you will need to cut a hole in the bellhousing for this)
The R25-28 uses a larger tri-bolt propshaft connector (same as those found in the Straight 6 Carltons/Senators), so you need to source the forward half of the prop that has the larger connector. Now this is a bit of a fuzzy area for me and I will explain why, I was very lucky to have a 2.0 8v estate from 1988 (one of the very first CarltonMk3's) which was fitted with the larger tri-bolt prop. After a little research on EPC I found that ONLY the 1988 ESTATE carltons were ever fitted with the larger connector, after this all 2.0 carltons used the smaller type. Before you consider using a S6 prop you cannot as they are shorter by about 6 inches :( In theory there is nothing to stop you removing the large nut that holds the smaller tri-bolt bracket on the end of the 2.0 8v box and fitting it to the R25-28... in theory.
Here is a comparison (Prop on left is from a S6 engine/box, whereas the right is the rare 1988 Estate 2.0 engine/box setup)

Now I am not sure but I suspect that the Omega V6 prop unit will fit, however without an example to play with I cannot confirm or deny this. You do always have the option of having one made, this usually will set you back about 50.
The last issue with using the R25-28 is all of them do NOT have a speedo output! The speedos in the Omegas were driven electronically from the ABS unit. Way around this? If you have an electronic speedo/digi dash your half way there, I know you can use your factory ABS speedo signal from one of the now redundant wheel sensors, channeled through an amplifier to drive the speedo. If you need this please visit this website: http://www.picbits.co.uk/ this clever fellow produces amplifiers and pulse converters which are handy for altering the inputs to 'fine tune' your speedo so it reads accurately. Email him and say that Johnny A send you!
Rear differential: The 4-pot Carltons (2.0's) use small rear drive assemblies, some members have stated that Estate 2.0s have the larger straight 6 setup.. however from my personal experience of my 1993 2.0 estate that too has the smaller drive type. So with that in mind if your using a C20LET on the 2.0 smaller drive setup I would suggest keeping it on standard power, anything more and its time to opt for the bigger (LSD) differential from a straight 6 model, you will need to change things like hubs and half shafts too. With this in mind try and source a complete rear subframe assembly from a GSi complete with the rear section of the prop shaft to make it all compatible.
Brakes!!: On standard C20LET power your doubling the power of your car without uprating the brakes! You crazy son! GSi 308mm front brakes are just the ticket!

Thats it!

Fitting a Z20LET (200bhp ish depend on map - 2.0 16v 'Ecotec' turbo engine)

The C20LET's next generation turbo powerplant, this unit is based on the X20XEV engine but the blocks are almost the same on the outside so mounting isn't that much different.

Anyone who knows this engine might be thinking this is the better option over the C20LET as none of the Z20LET engines came with distributors!! Well don't you smile too much as the Z20LET cames with its down set of headaches.

Headache no.1: Ok ok the Z20LET copied the C20LET and made sure you will need to relocate the N/S engine mount, but you could always give it 'the finger' and fit a top-mount aftermarket turbo like I did:

Headache number 1, part 2) The turbo also comes VERY close to the ABS pump, I recommend buying some head sheild material (ebay or demon tweaks) to protect the unit from heat.

Headache no.2: This is the big stumbling block, the Z20LET uses a fly-by-wire throttle, no mechanical cables! Its all done by electronics! This means much wiring nightmares and the installation of the different throttle pedal.

Headache no.3: If you're modding the N/S mount to clear the turbo... you will now have to modify all 3 of them! The Z20LET needs to use an Omega X20XEV sump, the sump doesn't like the 2.0 8v Carlton subframe.. it hates the S6 ones even more. This means the engine has to be mounted about 1 to 1.5 inches forward and slightly higher than the standard 2.0 8v engine.

Headache no.4: The flywheel! You already know the flywheel needs to poke out more so for the C20LET we use a Cally/Cav V6 unit, however the Z20LET has a different crank bolt arrangement and isn't compatible with the V6 unit. In fact I couldn't find an off the shelf compatible unit apart from an Omega dual mass 2.0 16v (X20XEV) unit and possibly the 2.0 8v Carlton unit (but I cannot confirm this). So you can either use the Omega dual mass unit (no spank you!) OR like me have a custom flywheel made up. Ben at TTV racing already has a Cally/Cav V6 flywheel with the Z20LET bolt arrangement on his system (he made it for me :D), them simply add your V6 clutch as per the C20LET guide.

Ballache no.5 - The ECU loom
Unless you are an auto electrician i'd just fit the C20LET lol
See the guide below for details - then run.

Shopping list:
Z20LET engine
Omega X20XEV dual mass or Custom flywheel (TTV racing)
Omega X20XEV sump and pickup pipe
Crankshaft needle bearing (GM part number: 90105743)
Suitable airbox substitute (Most people would just use a cone air filter)
Oil cooler from donor car (I do not recommend bypassing this on a turbo car)
Aftermarket electric radiator fan
Z20LET turbo downpipe (this will need cutting up and welding)
A suitable front mounted intercooler (Ford Sierra Cosworth unit is perfect and cheap)
Suitable boost pipes and silicone hoses (most pipework will be 2.5" I/D, however the turbo outlet is 2" I/D)
Suitable throttle body 'top hat'
Some additional small coolant hoses to feed coolant through the turbo
C20LET/XE power steering pump
A copy of TIS2000 with the Astra Turbo wiring diagrams on a laptop

« Last Edit: May 20, 2012, 07:40:23 PM by Johnny A »
1993 Carlton Estate 2.0 16v Turbo camo edition
1989 Lotus Carlton replica - M4000 edition!

Johnny A

  • A 2.0 Carlton that chases Lotus' finest about?
  • Wanted: Life
  • ******
  • Posts: 2344
  • 2 Carltons, 6 litres, 10 cylinders and one turbo
Re: Johnny's Guide to fitting a 2.0 16v engine varient into a Carlton/Senator
« Reply #1 on: February 16, 2011, 10:27:09 PM »
What you need to do:
Very similar to the C20LET here, after fiddling to get it mounted correctly (headache 1+4)
The top hat situation is actually a bit cheaper than the C20LET, simply get an X20XEV top hat and pipe from the scrappers!
The Z20LET ECU is designed to live in the engine bay and is therefore happy to do so in your Carlton/Senator, just be sensible about mounting it away from any heat sources. I mounted mine on the cold side of the bay next to the expansion bottle, it's a very small ECU.
Once you have the ECU mounted you need to wire it up, the Z20LET has two looms essentially which plug into their own plugs on the ECU itself and a smaller 3rd loom which mainly handles the alternator and starter - but does run wires for the secondary boost control solenoid and auxiliary water pump (I didn't run one). The first loom is almost 100% plug and play, aside from lengthening a few sensor plugs (Air Mass meter and MAP sensor).
The second loom is where it gets nasty, the second loom is primarily for the chassis. It plugs into things like the throttle pedal, immobiliser, multi function display, dash outputs, OBD2 port, ABS ECU, more stuff I can't remember.... trouble is it's not just a case of matching wiring colours up, many wires that do different things are the same colour!!!!
The only way to make this work is with the help of the TIS2000 wiring diagrams!
The method I used was to identify every plug I needed, mount the second plug onto the ECU and built a new loom using the wires from the old loom. I did it one wire at the time using TIS2000 to show me which wire went wire. Total nightmare!!

Thats it!

The 'things are getting silly' section

So you have installed a turbo 4-pot in your Carlton or Senator and now ABS are making voodoo dolls of you and sticking pins in them, but you want MORE. Like me you wanna upset some Lotus Carltons, thanks to the huge amount of tuning available for the LETs its very possible. Big turbos, uprated internals and remaps are all common place and like always the more you spend the faster you go (for example a member on Astra owners club has a 650+bhp Zafira... just imagine that in a Carlton!! The famous Lotus just had his ass handed to him! Actually a 400bhp LET would do that!)

But what about the rest of the car?
Well it gets tricky, this is something I am dealing with currently and some sections are still being researched so this section may not be perfect. Also I am simply going to focus on things directly related to the engine and power output, things like bigger brakes and uprated suspension are up to you.

First off we have the clutch, paddle is the only way to go here. 4-plate for a track day toy or 6-plate for a daily with track use. In my experience the only guys who can make a clutch that will do what they say it will do is Helix Autosport, but they aren't cheap and there may a long waiting list for bespoke clutches.

Gearbox: Well the R25-28 is a tough old bird! 400bhp is the top end of what they can handle, I have only ever seen one fail and they owner ran 430bhp through it for two very abusive years.
If you needs more i'd source a good gearbox and have it cryo-treated which has proven to increase the strength a lot!

Propshaft: Again not a clue, never heard of a failure so can't comment. However custom props can be made cheaply now so no biggy.

Rear drive assembly:
If your using a 2.0 Shell you are pushing the limits of the rear drive assembly on a standard power LET engine, so if your going for more power you need something bigger. The easiest upgrade is to the larger straight 6 rear drive assembly (larger diff in LSD format is best, larger hubs, flanges, cvs and half shafts), its best to buy an entire rear subframe with all the bits attached, you will also need the rear section of the propshaft too as the bigger setup has a larger prop flange. Apart from the larger prop flanges the prop itself is compatible across the range so you can attach your 2.0 front prop section to your straight 6 rear section without issue.
The limits of the straight 6 diff's isn't certain, I have been running 350bhp through one for months now with no ill effects. I think that as long as decent oil is used and stress isn't prolonged too much (I.e massive burnouts) you will be fine.
More?? Well some good news! Monaro bits fit!
A Monaro diff bolts straight up to the subframe and even the rear diff mount is identical! The propshaft mount of the diff is 100% compatible with all straight 6 props! You can use the monaro prop donuts or the S6 ones, however the monaro ones are stronger. The half shaft CV's bolt up to the S6 hub flanges BUT the half shafts themselves are about 2 inches too long! I am still looking into alternatives but so far the only option is to have them professionally shortened.
Most monaro diffs are 3.45:1, some HSV diffs are 3.7:1 but expect to pay almost double for one of these thanks to their rarity and all the monaro owners want them for better acceleration.

Using Lotus rear stuff is another option, but a lot harder to find, more expensive and apart from the diff bolting up nothing else from a S6 fits. LC's have larger sized hub flanges and different prop mountings.

Bushes: 80% of the Carlton/Senator bushes are fine, no worries. Its the 20% you need to worry about! The 'donut' bushes front and rear are crap... even on standard 24v power the rear ones don't last long. The good news is uprated poly rears are available from the land of OZ, but they are dead expensive... that's before import VAT!
*Update: Regal or Courtney sport (can't remember which) now supply there here in the UK... but I don't think they are cheap!!*
As for the front donuts, these are fine if they are new but track days will kill them quicker and no one produces polys. A few members have tried Calibra ones with washers but from past personal experience these are shockingly bad!

Fuelling: All the Carltons and Senators bar the Lotus share the same fuel pump, its actually the same fitted to the C20LET engined cars so will handle 280bhp with ease but I wouldn't push my luck over that. Uprated pumps are easy and getting cheap now, recently bought myself one rated at 650bhp on a turbo application for 75!!

Engine mounts: The rear mount is ok ish on the Carltons/Senators, however the Omega one only needs slight tweaking to fit and is stronger (Omega on left, Carlton on right)


The fronts are a bit different, 2.0 8v ones are too soft on anything turbo'd. 3.0 ones are much better but hard to find now. I am using BMW 3-series uprated poly bushes, got them from ebay and they are rock solid!!
« Last Edit: June 22, 2012, 11:45:20 PM by Johnny A »
1993 Carlton Estate 2.0 16v Turbo camo edition
1989 Lotus Carlton replica - M4000 edition!

Murph

  • Administrator
  • Wanted: Life
  • *****
  • Posts: 7724
  • Location: Dartford (Kent)
Re: Johnny's Guide to fitting a 2.0 16v engine varient into a Carlton/Senator
« Reply #2 on: February 16, 2011, 10:37:49 PM »
Farking good read that!

g4rth

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 550
Re: Johnny's Guide to fitting a 2.0 16v engine varient into a Carlton/Senator
« Reply #3 on: February 17, 2011, 07:02:03 AM »
good read, but a cossie or supra conversion is just as easy/hard...depending how you look at it ;D

all a preference to what suit you i s'pose   :-\ :-\

Pedro

  • Guest
Re: Johnny's Guide to fitting a 2.0 16v engine varient into a Carlton/Senator
« Reply #4 on: February 17, 2011, 07:20:27 PM »
Good work, Mr. A!

good read, but a cossie or supra conversion is just as easy/hard...depending how you look at it ;D

all a preference to what suit you i s'pose   :-\ :-\

But more expensive?
And VX do have a great cross-pollination (OK< not al the time, granted).

Johnny A

  • A 2.0 Carlton that chases Lotus' finest about?
  • Wanted: Life
  • ******
  • Posts: 2344
  • 2 Carltons, 6 litres, 10 cylinders and one turbo
Re: Johnny's Guide to fitting a 2.0 16v engine varient into a Carlton/Senator
« Reply #5 on: February 17, 2011, 08:09:09 PM »
good read, but a cossie or supra conversion is just as easy/hard...depending how you look at it ;D

all a preference to what suit you i s'pose   :-\ :-\

Cossie conversion: Actually an inferior setup to the C20LET in several ways... BUT 10 times the amount of tuning research has been done by various companies to tune them so the costs of getting 500bhp (as an example) is much less....

Supra conversion: A cheap way of getting 400bhp it has to be said, but that's not what this guide is about. The 4-pot twincam conversion is for people who want to maintain their 2.0 8v fuel economy but have the power when they want it. Also there is no argument that having a 4-pot makes the handling go from 'great' to 'exceptional'
1993 Carlton Estate 2.0 16v Turbo camo edition
1989 Lotus Carlton replica - M4000 edition!

Johnny A

  • A 2.0 Carlton that chases Lotus' finest about?
  • Wanted: Life
  • ******
  • Posts: 2344
  • 2 Carltons, 6 litres, 10 cylinders and one turbo
Guide updated with latest findings on the rear drive assembly (2.0 diff specs and also Monaro diff compatibilities).
1993 Carlton Estate 2.0 16v Turbo camo edition
1989 Lotus Carlton replica - M4000 edition!

damoh

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 36
Re: Johnny's Guide to fitting a 2.0 16v engine varient into a Carlton/Senator
« Reply #7 on: September 07, 2011, 10:52:09 AM »
excellent guide goes makes a shopping list* ;)

Johnny A

  • A 2.0 Carlton that chases Lotus' finest about?
  • Wanted: Life
  • ******
  • Posts: 2344
  • 2 Carltons, 6 litres, 10 cylinders and one turbo
Guide updated
1993 Carlton Estate 2.0 16v Turbo camo edition
1989 Lotus Carlton replica - M4000 edition!

Johnny A

  • A 2.0 Carlton that chases Lotus' finest about?
  • Wanted: Life
  • ******
  • Posts: 2344
  • 2 Carltons, 6 litres, 10 cylinders and one turbo
Re: Johnny's Guide to fitting a 2.0 16v engine varient into a Carlton/Senator
« Reply #9 on: February 25, 2012, 05:01:34 PM »
Guide updated to include information on Z20LET wiring and several tweaks based on my latest findings
1993 Carlton Estate 2.0 16v Turbo camo edition
1989 Lotus Carlton replica - M4000 edition!