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Author Topic: oh dear!  (Read 974 times)
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badgerpoker69
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« on: October 04, 2008, 01:10:21 PM »

my carlton has thrown a hissy fit and spat it's dummy out! done just over 1000 trouble free miles in it so far, and the 1st time we go any great distance from home it breaks! i was driving allong and noticed a small flash from behind the dash, and also the sweet smell of electrical burns! then i lost the heated seats, the speedo, the fuel gauge and the temp gauge altogether, and also the battery light went out (it stayed on for some reason).  then, in the middle of a traffic jam , facing up-hill, the engine started to idle erratically, then the gearbos went into "safe" mode, then the engine stopped.....doh!! and wouldn't restart. had a poke around and couldn't see anything and had no multimeter to hand so I called the RAC.  the bloke came and checked that battery voltage, it was barely 9v! so he jump started the car, then measured the volts at 12v, then it died as soon as he removed the jump leads. further poking around revealed no 12v feed to the alternator. so he jump statred the car again adn then "flashed" the alternator from the battery and it started working again. so basically now everytime i start the car, i have to flash the alternator from the battery to get it charging! anybody got any ideas as to what the hell happened! no fuses were blown by the way. and when i took the clocks out, there was a piece of the copper track hanging down and a scorch mark where it had shorted out on something! Huh Huh so at the very least i need to get new clocks and wire in a switch on the dash that will flash the alternator when pushed!! Shocked
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doz
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« Reply #1 on: October 04, 2008, 06:43:27 PM »

It needs the tell tale light to get the alternator to charge
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Einarrson
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« Reply #2 on: October 04, 2008, 09:35:17 PM »

Sounds like a bit of a nightmare.
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Pedro
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« Reply #3 on: October 04, 2008, 10:03:32 PM »

Sounds like a new alto?
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carlton_mad
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« Reply #4 on: October 05, 2008, 07:47:48 AM »

and a set of clocks
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what would life be like if we all drove fwd cars? feckin boring that's what rear drive or bust
badgerpoker69
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« Reply #5 on: October 05, 2008, 01:25:18 PM »

the alternator works fine, but only after you give it a 12v feed from the battery after the car has been started. and yes i think the clocks are buggered! anyone got any spares? it would decide to break when i'm 90 miles from home too wouldn't it!! doh!! Roll Eyes
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Pedro
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« Reply #6 on: October 05, 2008, 03:04:19 PM »

Might be worth replacing the wiring from battery to alto to starter motor.

I did, and it made a helluva difference! Grin
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badgerpoker69
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« Reply #7 on: October 05, 2008, 06:03:39 PM »

also noticed on the way back today, my ecu seems to be some sort of "safe mode" as the rev limiter kicks in a 5800rpm and there is a reall lack of power after 4k rpm.the alternator wasn't charging very well mind. only just over 13v and that dropped to just over 12v when the seats ect were switched on. hopefully once I re-connect a new 12v feed it should work properly. can anyone tell me if the alternator should have permanent 12v to it, or should it just come on with the ignition? and also do senator clocks fit?
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von-opel
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« Reply #8 on: October 05, 2008, 07:58:20 PM »

Might be worth replacing the wiring from battery to alto to starter motor.

I did, and it made a helluva difference! Grin

^^^ I agree

The ignition lamp is there to energise the field coils in the alternator when it is stationery, once the alternator is rotating then the field coils will be fed via the diode pack & is thus the alternator is self sustaining and the lamp goes out as there is no longer any potential difference across it. What sometimes occurs if the thick charging cable to the battery is in any way defective, momentarily full charging current can be fed via the small blue/white wire to the ign lamp, the weak point is of course the printed circuit at the back of the instrument panel and so paffff/smoke etc! (15amps is enough to cause this if the protecting fuse is correct:10a)

If the panel's not too bad, you could wire in a separate exciter / ign lamp somewhere else. 'Flashing' can damage the diode pack.
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Murph
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« Reply #9 on: October 05, 2008, 08:51:53 PM »

do senator clocks fit?

Yep - theyre the same (except the digital ones obviously!)
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badgerpoker69
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« Reply #10 on: October 05, 2008, 09:19:57 PM »

flashing the fields is never the best way to get any generator/alternator going! i'm not gonna use my car untill I get some working clocks. the copper track that was damaged leads from the top plug (i'll have to check wich pin) and runs down to a small diode at the bottom of the clocks. the track doesn't look repairable as it's melted the plastic around it. it might have knackered the diode too!
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badgerpoker69
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« Reply #11 on: October 07, 2008, 08:03:02 AM »

anybody have any thoughts on my ecu being in a limp mode? the revs are limited to around 5.5krpm and there no power after 4.5krpm. and no matter what you do with gearbox it will always shift up at 5krpm. is this cuased by the faulty clocks, or did the problem cause another fault maybe?
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carlton_mad
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« Reply #12 on: October 07, 2008, 05:43:48 PM »

check the abs fuse!!
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what would life be like if we all drove fwd cars? feckin boring that's what rear drive or bust
badgerpoker69
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« Reply #13 on: October 07, 2008, 06:30:02 PM »

checked all the fuses when the "fault" first occured and they're all fine. checked em with a multimeter too just in case! have I busted it then? Shocked
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carlton_mad
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« Reply #14 on: October 08, 2008, 06:26:41 AM »

not necessarily but you are going to have to go through it piecemeal to find the fault!!
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what would life be like if we all drove fwd cars? feckin boring that's what rear drive or bust
badgerpoker69
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« Reply #15 on: October 08, 2008, 10:33:58 AM »

nice!! cup of tea and a multimeter for the day eh!! Huh
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carlton_mad
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« Reply #16 on: October 08, 2008, 04:58:36 PM »

aye!!

good luck sir!!!
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what would life be like if we all drove fwd cars? feckin boring that's what rear drive or bust
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