Nice one Brian!
I have some of those to fit (one day.............).
Where did you wire them up to?
Took a duel feed (one for each side) +/- straight off the circuit board for the main front courtesy lamp. This way you get the benefit of the delayed switch off etc...etc...
I'm still working on the correct resistor values for the circuit as the LEDs are around 4vdc and of course the car wants to shove 13vdc up 'em, there's also the current to consider and lots of unwanted heat to dissipate.
Anyhoo I'll post up the detail and if time allows some fitting photos when I have it complete (hopefully before the weekend).
Thanks for the interest Pedro.
Update and fitting guide for this mod.
The High Intensity LEDs can be purchased from Maplin Electronics
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=36002&TabID=1&C=SEO&U=StaticFamilyPages&doy=search&MenuName=High%20Flux%20Lambertian%20Luxeon%20Star/V%20LEDsYou will need a series resistor in each of the +12v feeds to the LED. The resistor MUST be a 68 Ohm 25w Aluminium Clad type. These can be purchased from Farnell Electronics.
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/searchPage2.jsp?Ntk=gensearch&select0=181602¶mSelectCount=2&showImages=true&st=parametricSelection&N=401&Ntt=68r+25w+aluminium+clad+resistor&comSearch=true¶mSearch=true&st=parametricSelection&x=27&y=10IMPORTANT:
Each LED must be fed independently with its own +12v and earth with the 68R resistor fitted in series with the +12vdc line.
DO NOT power both LEDs from a single 12vdc line as you will require a completely different value resistor to do this.
The 68R resistor helps to stabilise voltage variations that cause changes in the amount of current that the LEDs draw. Large current swings can dramatically shorten the life of the LEDs.
I have wired my LEDs using this method and they are fine. However avoid leaving the LEDs switched on for long periods as both the resistors and the LEDs will get VERY warm indeed.
I am hoping eventually to make available a controller circuit that can drive up to six LEDs with a very low power consumption. Will advise when this is available.
As stated before - take the +/- source feed from the rear of the main courtesy light. This can be done by soldering directly to the solder side of the controller PCB at the point where the Festoon bulb mounts are fitted.
Take care over routing of the cables from the lamp assembly as it is easy to trap and damage them.
Getting the cables from the courtesy lamp to the rear grab handles: -
1) Fit the Senator Grab Handle backplates (remove eyeball lamp first or they can't be fitted)
2) Using a scalpel cut the roof ling away to the shape of the eyeball housing. This will expose an opening to the roof cabling channel.
3) Remove Sun Visor/s taking care not to break the light connector to the vanity mirrors.
4) Lever out the clear courtesy light lens and remove the festoon bulb (carefull it will be bloody hot!)
5) Lever out (from the sun roof facing edge) the courtesy lamp assy and pull down exposing sun roof housing fixing screws.
6) Remove two self tapping screws from the sun roof motor housing mount.
7) Pulll the plastic housing away from the roof lining to release two barbed nylon clips which hold it in place. Be careful as these clips tend to spring out and hide themselves in your dashboard somewhere.
After removing the sun roof motor housing remove the roof lining retaining trim from around the sun roof. (this allows the roof lining to drop down in order to get your hands behind it to route the cables. Also unclip the front driver and passenger door rubber seals which will allow the roof lining to be dropped down near the e front.
9) Insert a strong length of copper wire (domestic ring main stuff is ideal) into the hole that you cut in the roof lining behind the grab handles and feed it (you gotta jiggle it a lot but it will go) through the roof channel until it appears alongside the sun visor mount area. Pull it through to where the courtesy light fits.
10) You should (unless you cut it too bleedin short
) now have a piece of copper wire from the courtesy light to the grab handle hole.
11) Tape a length of two (see photo) core domestic mains cable to the courtesy light end of the copper wire and pull this back through the roof channel until it appears through the grab handle hole. You now have one cable routed ready to connect.(I have suggested this type of cable which is the same as a lot of domestic entertainment systems as it is easy to obtain, has the correct conductor size and is easy to fit)
12) Repeat this for the other side of the car BEFORE soldering the cables to the back of the courtesy light PCB.
13) Re-fit roof lining, door seals and sun visors. DON'T re-fit sun roof motor housing yet as it will restrict the soldering and fitting of the courtesy lamp.
At this stage you should have two cables routed - one in either side of the roof, grab handles fitted and holes cut into the roof lining.
Remove the 15amp fuse that serves the interior lights (this is a precaution cos I didn't and blew a fuse)
Solder the newly routed cables to the back of the courtesy light PCB at the point where the festoon bulb mounts are situated (observe polarity - I used Brown for + and Blue for -) Don't overheat the connections when soldering as the bulb mounts may come adrift and you will melt the insulation on the cable.
Refit the courtesy lamp (take care not trap wiring), sun roof motor housing, sun roof trim etc...
Refit the 15amp fuse only after you have insulated the exposed ends of the two cables hanging out of the grab handle holes. Put a connector block terminal on to achieve this - see photos.
Regarding the fitting of the LEDs and mods to the eyeball housings the photo will show what is required along with some step instructions.
1) Remove silver grey eyeball and lamp from housing.
2) Carefully cut away all of the eye ball socket plastic including the terminals and switch blades (do not damage slide switch as this is glued back in place and will not need to function) DO NOT cut away the two eyeball housing retaining clips as these will be needed to re-mount in grab handle back plate.
3) Glue (quick set epoxy Araldite) a piece of black 1mm thick ABS to the back of the eyeball socket housing.
4) Drill hole in centre of ABS to allow the LED lens and its black plastic housing to pass through it (8mm Dia I think)
5) I have used 2mm thick double sided adhesive pads to fit the LED to the plastic - you may find a more suitable alternative.
6) Connect LED assy with housing to the new cable as shown in photo. Be sure to insulate the connections to the 25w resistor or it will short out in the roof channel,
7) Carefully slide cable, resistor, terminal blocks and cable into the roof channel and clip lamp housing in place.
This should be all that's required.
Any probs then post me.
