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king nero
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« on: July 31, 2005, 05:42:53 PM » |
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Firstly, get rid of the original speakers and head unit... Had a hard time getting the head unit out, had to use mole grips   The red/yellow wire that goes along with the antenna cable, what's its purpose? don't have a leccy ariel...  What's this for? it's a connector, that sits right under the box in the center console... Working tomorrow... will put up more pics when I'll continue. I am also moving the piccies to a separate webpage, for the sake of the 56k'ers... this will lighten up the pages for them, and the broadband people can choose whether or not to click this link: http://users.skynet.be/kingnero/ice/ This will be updated as I continue...
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« Last Edit: August 05, 2005, 09:49:24 AM by king nero »
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Pedro
I'M A FILTHY TORY!
Global Moderator
Wanted: Life
    
Posts: 6605
Location: York
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« Reply #1 on: July 31, 2005, 08:02:06 PM » |
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Looking good, mate! I know Jack Schitt about ICE, but have replaced front door speakers with JBL GTO (I think!) and tweeters. Should I fit the crossovers? I dunno what they actually do - split the sound to the correct speakers at a guess!  Got a JVC headunit, and will replace rear speakers with JBL's too, as they do sound good. Might get a small bass box in the boot - I've been told I need a 10" for listening to Rock and Metal. Bye the way, is your car LHD?
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Do you know what "Nemesis" means? A righteous infliction of retribution manifested by an appropriate agent. Personified in this case by an 'orrible c*nt... me.
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king nero
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« Reply #2 on: July 31, 2005, 08:12:41 PM » |
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LHD indeed, as you can see in the third pic... I'm from Belgium.
Crossovers are used to split the higher tones (from upto around 100 Hz) to your threeways, or tweeters, and the lower tones to the subwoofer. Thus each speaker gets the frequencies it plays best, and they won't waste energy reproducing frequencies they can't achieve. Best is to use active Xovers, as seen in amps. (High and Low Pass Filters) Passive Xovers, as you'll probably use them (if your speakers aren't amped) are told to be not as good. I can't comment that as I don't have the experience for this.
JVC is good, I'm going for a Sony Head Unit, a Kenwood amp and a cheapo one for the rear threeways, and various speakers, don't need the uber sound quality as I wont play very loud music anyway.
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2PAC
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« Reply #3 on: August 01, 2005, 12:16:33 AM » |
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Carlton without electric windows??
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2PAC
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« Reply #4 on: August 01, 2005, 12:18:04 AM » |
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This cars left hand drive?   ??
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king nero
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« Reply #5 on: August 01, 2005, 06:21:57 AM » |
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Pedro
I'M A FILTHY TORY!
Global Moderator
Wanted: Life
    
Posts: 6605
Location: York
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« Reply #6 on: August 01, 2005, 09:29:10 AM » |
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I had en ex-plod 2.6Li with no sunroof, no lecky mirrors and no lecky windows on an L plate. It had a nice little switch to turn off the interior light though................
So back to the thread..............
I really should fit the crossovers then. If I get some more JBL speakers for the rear shelf, would it be worth using the tweeters aswell? (The set comprises of a pair of 5" and a pair of tweeters).
Looks like the old MDF will be needed too.
Anybody got any recommendations regarding an amp and bass box?
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Do you know what "Nemesis" means? A righteous infliction of retribution manifested by an appropriate agent. Personified in this case by an 'orrible c*nt... me.
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king nero
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« Reply #7 on: August 01, 2005, 11:15:41 AM » |
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I'm amping two of these boys: with a kenwood amp (LPF set at around 80 - 100 Hz). piccies: http://users.skynet.be/kingnero/ice/ don't buy a bass box, buy a woofer and make your own casing or have someone do it for you. That's spending your cash wisely. As for an amp, you'll want one with a XO (LPF) built in, and about the wattage you'll need for the woofers. eg, two woofers, each one @ 200 W rms, you'll want an amp that has got 2 channels with each channels 100 to 150 W rms output. (that way you can't bang your woofers). Then you'll need two passive XOs for your front speakers, also set up at about 100 Hz. In fact, amp up your front speakers (twoways, or threeways, would be nice) and a pair of woofers in the trunk would give great results.
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« Last Edit: August 05, 2005, 09:48:30 AM by king nero »
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ian
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« Reply #8 on: August 01, 2005, 09:30:43 PM » |
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my j reg 1.8l has leccy fronts and windy back windows, gaz old j reg 1.8l had windy windows all round
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Pedro
I'M A FILTHY TORY!
Global Moderator
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Posts: 6605
Location: York
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« Reply #9 on: August 02, 2005, 01:35:10 PM » |
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Maybe cloth was an option?
Not everybody likes leather - me included!
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Do you know what "Nemesis" means? A righteous infliction of retribution manifested by an appropriate agent. Personified in this case by an 'orrible c*nt... me.
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king nero
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« Reply #10 on: August 02, 2005, 01:43:24 PM » |
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Not everybody likes leather - me included!
why don't you like leather? because of the weight? because it gets very hot, when parked in the sun? I have thought about putting leather front seats in mine, but I'm still doubting because I can't really see the benefits other than that it's very nice to look at.
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carltongsi24v
Sr. Member
   
Posts: 358
Now driving a Vectra Supertouring!!!!
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« Reply #11 on: August 05, 2005, 07:56:29 PM » |
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Your Welsh, and that means yew have to be WRONG  LOL
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Running out of road , just has to be done!!!!
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Murph
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Location: Dartford (Kent)
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« Reply #12 on: August 09, 2005, 08:52:49 PM » |
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My Plaza on an L plate has: NO Headlamp wash/wipe NO Fogs (or wiring for them in the fuse box) NO Hi-beams (Ditto wiring) NO Leccy windows NO leccy sunroof NO Adjustable steering column NO extra weight  The extra wire with the aerial wire is for a signal amplifier.
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Murph
Administrator
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Location: Dartford (Kent)
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« Reply #13 on: August 10, 2005, 08:58:07 PM » |
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Actually I'm right with you on that so I've already wired in the leccy sunroof, fitted the hi-beams and have the column ready to go in. Cant afford a bigger lump as yet but I am at least gonna bin the 20NE and replace it with a 20SE which will be rebuilt and ported before its installed. Should gain about 20 horses.  It'll have to do for now 
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bigjohn1969
Full Member
  
Posts: 119
BLACKBURN,LANCASHIRE
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« Reply #14 on: September 01, 2005, 08:22:37 PM » |
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I did an install in a vectra i had a couple of years ago,this wasnt cheap............the install in my carlton wont be this big. http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/8153/vectra9oe.jpgit had........ 4 phoenix gold amplifiers(1 is under a sub no room left in floor) 2 jl audio 15 w3 d2 subs phoenix gold 215ix equalizer 4 jl audio XR series component speakers and tweeters 2 extra batteries in wheel well 3 1 farad power capacitors 2 sony screens in headrests sony playstation sony mp3 headunit and mp3 6 disc changer had her for a couple of years and made a hell of a racket in between........ all the best bigjohn
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LOTUS REP
Jr. Member
 
Posts: 89
3.1 12v gsi 3.0 12v Turbo
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« Reply #15 on: September 05, 2005, 10:56:33 PM » |
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Good luck with the install King Nero...When you fit your power lead to the amp/amps make sure it's of a decent size (10mm) or so would be ample as when subs kick in they take alot of power all of a sudden & you need to be able to keep up with them..Best bet is to stick a 90amp alternator & a diesel or a 24v battery on as well (500cca+). You could also fit a 1farad capacitor in line to the amp to fill in the dips in power supply when the amp needs it but these can be quite exspensive & unless you are running large (1000w+) or multiple amps I would just go with the battery & alternator upgrade.. Keep the earth for the amp/amps as short as possible & bolt it to a good clean piece of the shell (boot floor is ideal) as no matter how big an earth cable you fit it will never have as good a path back to the battery than the shell itself..... Also keep the power lead at least 3 feet away from the amp phono leads as the electromagnetic field it produces interferes with the signals from the head unit & can give you an annoying buzz in the background at higher volumes..I tend to run the power lead down the battery side of the car & the phono leads down the opposite side to give minimal interference & maximum sound quality. A simple & easy way to improve the quality & volume of a system is if your going to run your front speakers & maybe parcel shelf speakers from the head unit & only the subs from an amp is to turn the bass very low on the head unit & they will sound clearer & be able to handle more volume without distorting because they wont have to handle the rough bass that rattles the cones like mad thus wearing them out quicker & distorting the sound... Then turn the gain up on the amp running the sub/subs to compensate for the low bass signal from the head unit & let the sub do all the bass...Thats what they are designed for..Saves hammering the hell out of the other speakers & leaves them to fill in the mid range & top end frequencies..They'll sound alot clearer too... It's those little things that add up to make a better sounding system...Give it a try....Balancing the bass to mid/top sound can take abit of playing about with to get right but it's worth it to see your neighbours come out saying "I can't hear my telly",or "your making my orniments rattle" then you know your not far off  P.S. you can set your system up the same if your amplifing the front speakers as well...It will give the same effect but will sound a bit better as the amp on a head unit natrually starts to distort a little bit when you push them hard because there's not alot of room in the back for an amp with a bit of clout Hope I've been of some help To Pedro... If you check the backs of your tweeters there might be a little capacitor on them which acts like a partial crossover & blocks out the bass a bit to stop them popping & distorting. Not as good as a passive crossover but does a similar job. If you fit a passive one just take the one off the tweeter & it should be reet!!!! Twas a nice system you had there BigJohn..Few quids worth in there!!!!
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« Last Edit: September 05, 2005, 10:58:55 PM by LOTUS REP »
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