A3LTR
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IF ALL ELSE FAILS - HIT IT!!
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« on: December 03, 2006, 10:42:48 PM » |
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right, this is really startig to p*** me off.... 1989 GSI 12v LE2 Jetronic  difficult to start when cold and hot  following items have been replaced.. 1. ECT 2. ECU 3. Airflow meter 4. plugs 5. Dizzy cap 6. Rotor 7. Fuel pump relay Compression seems OK Fuel pressure is OK Ignition timing is OK Radio is wired direct to the battery PLEASE CAN SOMEONE SHED SOME LIGHT ON THIS... pleeeeease |
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Murph
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« Reply #1 on: December 03, 2006, 10:49:48 PM » |
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Temp sensors?
Stymied me for ten months on a four-pot - turned out to be the temp sensor by the thermostat.
Worth a go.
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A3LTR
No longer single and lovin it !
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IF ALL ELSE FAILS - HIT IT!!
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« Reply #2 on: December 03, 2006, 11:09:42 PM » |
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yep, changed that too (the ECT) think I might have to remove the injection system and fit tripple carbs! |
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Murph
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« Reply #3 on: December 03, 2006, 11:26:42 PM » |
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That'll do it! Nice set of Holly's |
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Neil
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« Reply #4 on: December 03, 2006, 11:54:57 PM » |
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Just checking you have changed the right temp sensor? I had similar symptoms on a 2.0 which a garage correctly diagnosed as the temp. sensor, but they then went on to replace the one that does the temp gauge on the dashboard. Strange thing was it seemed to fix it for a week or two.....
Another possibility; whats the battery like? Is the engine turning over at a reasonable speed?
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melinx
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« Reply #5 on: December 04, 2006, 11:51:39 AM » |
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Make sure that you have at least 10 volts at the battery terminals when the engine is cranking.
Below 10 volts the ECU may not operate properly.
If you have a tacho, does it 'kick' when you are trying to start ? if it doesn't it probably means no spark, since the tacho is usually derived from the ignition pulses.
Check again when cranking with the meter between the negative battery terminal ( not the clamp ) and a good engine earth point and make sure that you have no more than 0.2 volts showing, if it's more than that, poor earthing is 'robbing' your battery voltage.
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Tetleysmooth
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« Reply #6 on: December 04, 2006, 01:15:01 PM » |
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Borewash?
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Nils desparandum illegitimi carborundum.
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carlton_mad
3.0 CDX and now Diamond 3.0 24v
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« Reply #7 on: December 04, 2006, 06:53:53 PM » |
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yep, changed that too (the ECT) think I might have to remove the injection system and fit tripple carbs! hiabusa carbs!!!!!!!!! mmmmmmmmmmmm nice! |
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what would life be like if we all drove fwd cars? feckin boring that's what rear drive or bust
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A3LTR
No longer single and lovin it !
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IF ALL ELSE FAILS - HIT IT!!
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« Reply #8 on: December 04, 2006, 08:37:49 PM » |
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the ignition is sparking ok, cranking at a good speed, def. changed the correct temp sensor Borewash?
 one thing I had thought of, could the oil pressure have anything to do with it? ie affecting the hydraulic tappets ?? may fit 6 SU carbs for a laugh |
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carlton_mad
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« Reply #9 on: December 04, 2006, 08:40:44 PM » |
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borewash is caused by not allowing the engine to reach operating temp before turning off (unburnt fuel from cold starting) try a small amount of oil down each bore to give it a seal round the rings and fire her up!!
hth
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what would life be like if we all drove fwd cars? feckin boring that's what rear drive or bust
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mrchaz
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« Reply #10 on: December 04, 2006, 09:27:34 PM » |
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borewash is caused by not allowing the engine to reach operating temp before turning off (unburnt fuel from cold starting) try a small amount of oil down each bore to give it a seal round the rings and fire her up!!
hth
And wait for the neighbourhood to disappear in smoke when it does |
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4.0 24v LC Rep
Vectra SRi140
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carlton_mad
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« Reply #11 on: December 04, 2006, 10:23:47 PM » |
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lol@mrchaz!!!!!!!!!
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what would life be like if we all drove fwd cars? feckin boring that's what rear drive or bust
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Pedro
I'M A FILTHY TORY!
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« Reply #12 on: December 04, 2006, 11:00:23 PM » |
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Yeah, but it get the impression that it's difficult to start when hot - surely that discounts the old borewash syndrome?
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Do you know what "Nemesis" means? A righteous infliction of retribution manifested by an appropriate agent. Personified in this case by an 'orrible c*nt... me.
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carlton_mad
3.0 CDX and now Diamond 3.0 24v
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« Reply #13 on: December 04, 2006, 11:45:41 PM » |
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That'll do it! Nice set of Holly's holley carbs are mainly for V8 engines (can get manifolds for V6 tho) |
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what would life be like if we all drove fwd cars? feckin boring that's what rear drive or bust
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Murph
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« Reply #14 on: December 05, 2006, 12:31:07 AM » |
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Fabricate 'em then!  |
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carlton_mad
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« Reply #15 on: December 05, 2006, 06:15:12 PM » |
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Yeah, but it get the impression that it's difficult to start when hot - surely that discounts the old borewash syndrome?
and its a 12v too so maybe not borewash could it be the ecu has gone intermittent? if so i have a spare that you can try (depending on location) or if there is somebody close to you who has a spare swap it out and see if that works (the ecu iirc only fires the injectors on the 12v gsi) this may be the reason you have fuel pressure but if the injectors arent firing correctly the car will be a bugger to start!! |
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what would life be like if we all drove fwd cars? feckin boring that's what rear drive or bust
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carlton_mad
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« Reply #16 on: December 05, 2006, 06:16:43 PM » |
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also the injectors themselves may be the problem!!
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what would life be like if we all drove fwd cars? feckin boring that's what rear drive or bust
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Murph
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« Reply #17 on: December 05, 2006, 06:26:26 PM » |
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The ECU has been swapped out already so it could be the injectors.
It would be long odds for all/most of them to go U/S at once, though it's still worth a look IMHO
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carlton_mad
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« Reply #18 on: December 05, 2006, 06:35:52 PM » |
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dodgy fuel
hall sensor going intermittent
bad earth
hows about trying easy start (dont like the stuff myself but it is a good way to start a stubborn engine)
try a new/sh set of injectors
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what would life be like if we all drove fwd cars? feckin boring that's what rear drive or bust
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carltonman
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« Reply #19 on: December 05, 2006, 07:49:37 PM » |
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Easy start..........not for me.
I put a red ex mix with petrol through the spark plug hole after removing plugs. Not alot though. Replace the plug and then try. If it starts and run, check fuel pump really after a while to see if it get real hot. If so bin and swap.
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« Last Edit: December 05, 2006, 07:52:29 PM by carltonman »
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A3LTR
No longer single and lovin it !
Sr. Member
Posts: 489
IF ALL ELSE FAILS - HIT IT!!
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« Reply #20 on: December 05, 2006, 08:48:58 PM » |
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when i bough the car it came with a set of injectors, they must be working as when it's trying to start there is strong smell of petrol from the exhaust.. what about the ignition advance control unit ? are these prone to being faulty |
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mapblue
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« Reply #21 on: December 05, 2006, 10:37:46 PM » |
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I would still try change the injectors,they may putting in the fuel but if they are spraying properly the fuel will not ignite and you get a strong smell off fuel.
Had the same trouble with a rs turbo years ago,It took a lot off cranking to fire and would not take throttle for about 3 minutes then it would go allright,When you stopped it and left it for 10 minutes the fuel dribble in and would not start again.
Had the injectors tested and they were not spraying properly and leaking.
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Oh no not again
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A3LTR
No longer single and lovin it !
Sr. Member
Posts: 489
IF ALL ELSE FAILS - HIT IT!!
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« Reply #22 on: December 05, 2006, 10:48:26 PM » |
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Ahhh! never thought of that.. that would explain alot of things..
if the car is left for a few days it will start 1st click(gives time for the fuel to seep past the rings), if you have just turned off the engine and go to restart it, it does.. 1st click (no time for fuel to leak) but if the engine is hot and left for about 10 mins it takes time to fire up again..
I'll have to dig out those spare injectors !!!
cheers !
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jonnybear
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1993 (k) Carlton CDi 2.0i, Tyne And Wear (NE)
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« Reply #23 on: January 16, 2007, 11:47:47 PM » |
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all good on the home front now mate ?
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A3LTR
No longer single and lovin it !
Sr. Member
Posts: 489
IF ALL ELSE FAILS - HIT IT!!
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« Reply #24 on: January 17, 2007, 05:35:48 PM » |
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why not likely !!!!
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