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king nero
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« on: September 29, 2006, 09:03:43 PM » |
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just took mine out: late this evening I noticed the temp gauge going off the clock, I stopped and saw water leaking. got home (did have enough water with me, was going to the sports club) so filled up (steamy!), stopped to ask some people for e refill (bottle was empty), refilled again, after two stops I got home.
took everything off, I saw water leaking on the cambelt, so took it out and will get another one tomorrow early morning.
Thx to a friend, who helped me (it was soo dark! will take pics tomorrow during daylight)
Is it OK to re-use that cambelt, as it was changed shortly before I bought the car (one year/15.000 miles ago) ?
Because, when I need to renew that one as well, I need to take off the bottom pulley or the plastic cap below, as the cambelt can't go off at the bottom end...
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carlton_mad
3.0 CDX and now Diamond 3.0 24v
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dartford kent
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« Reply #1 on: September 29, 2006, 10:08:01 PM » |
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change the belt they arent too dear and will save you a load of worry the bottom pulley is held with 4 allen bolts just make sure your allen key is a good quality one and try and "tap" it home (may need to remove rad to do this) but all in all not too hard for anyone to do try and get a steel bladed pump btw as the plastic ones are imho inferior
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what would life be like if we all drove fwd cars? feckin boring that's what rear drive or bust
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king nero
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« Reply #2 on: September 30, 2006, 01:40:54 PM » |
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How do I know if the timing belt is tensioned properly? any easy tips/tricks?
As I don't know exactly how much "free movement" it should have...
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Pedro
I'M A FILTHY TORY!
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« Reply #3 on: September 30, 2006, 03:36:15 PM » |
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If I remember correctly, there should be 6 - 10mm slack on the "longest side" of the belt - the right as you look at it from the front.
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Do you know what "Nemesis" means? A righteous infliction of retribution manifested by an appropriate agent. Personified in this case by an 'orrible c*nt... me.
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Dave the Builder
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« Reply #4 on: September 30, 2006, 04:20:30 PM » |
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You should just about be able to twish the belt at its longest point.midway between water pump and crank pulley.  12 oclock on the cam pulley =tdc on no 1 . line it up with the spark plugs out. carefull the new belt is in the correct direction .good clean inside cam belt cover while its off.
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If the above post contains spelling mistakes / grammatical errors / poor use of the quote function / a very weak retort, or is generally shyte; it's because I'm feked on a cocktail of drugs,homebrew and carb cleaner.sorry
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Tetleysmooth
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« Reply #5 on: September 30, 2006, 04:36:49 PM » |
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If your Carlton is a later one, it should have an automatic tensioner.
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Nils desparandum illegitimi carborundum.
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Dave the Builder
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« Reply #6 on: September 30, 2006, 04:58:41 PM » |
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Mr nero's ride is fitted with the c20 SE lump so belt tension is via water pump rotation. which reminds me .... Anyone got a timeing belt cover (cam-belt cover) for the C20SE (rounded top one). need one for me cdi . if not i'll go scrappy and rob cavalier one .
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If the above post contains spelling mistakes / grammatical errors / poor use of the quote function / a very weak retort, or is generally shyte; it's because I'm feked on a cocktail of drugs,homebrew and carb cleaner.sorry
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king nero
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« Reply #7 on: September 30, 2006, 07:00:34 PM » |
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Thx for all the help, I got the car up and running again. And yes, no tensioner, got an eccentric water pump pulley which takes up the slack...
btw, there's nu such thing as a c20SE, as far as I know, not that it matters much...
One last thing: I fluched all the coolant fluid,( which was as dark as mud), and refilled with anti-freeze like it should. Ran the car for a while, topped up, ran again, topped up again, blowers on full heat, water level stays stable. Blowers also give much more heat than they ever done before...
If I were to have any air locks, how should I know? don't think I do, but I don't know the symptoms of one, so I am not 100% sure...
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carlton_mad
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« Reply #8 on: September 30, 2006, 07:18:45 PM » |
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the way to eliminate air in the system is to remove the temp gauge sender and wait for water to come out then replace!!
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what would life be like if we all drove fwd cars? feckin boring that's what rear drive or bust
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Pedro
I'M A FILTHY TORY!
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« Reply #9 on: September 30, 2006, 07:56:44 PM » |
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Shouldn't really get an air-lock in theory, as the expansion tank is the highest point of the system
Not fool proof, I know.
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Do you know what "Nemesis" means? A righteous infliction of retribution manifested by an appropriate agent. Personified in this case by an 'orrible c*nt... me.
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carlton_mad
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« Reply #10 on: September 30, 2006, 08:05:57 PM » |
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must admit i never had one but there is always a first time for every thing
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what would life be like if we all drove fwd cars? feckin boring that's what rear drive or bust
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Murph
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« Reply #11 on: September 30, 2006, 08:32:33 PM » |
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I had an air-lock on the Plaza - one good bounce on the drivers side wing and she 'burped' into the tank!
Good as gold after that.
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king nero
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« Reply #12 on: October 01, 2006, 06:48:37 AM » |
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the way to eliminate air in the system is to remove the temp gauge sender and wait for water to come out then replace!!
cold engine? hot engine? whilst running? 
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carlton_mad
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dartford kent
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« Reply #13 on: October 01, 2006, 06:51:13 AM » |
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cold is probably best but if you are feeling brave!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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what would life be like if we all drove fwd cars? feckin boring that's what rear drive or bust
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king nero
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« Reply #14 on: October 01, 2006, 08:02:59 PM » |
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Weird  I changed the water temp sender last week, and while the rad was topped up, there wasn't any water spillage whatsoever through the sender hole... cold engine btw... That's why I asked the question...
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