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Author Topic: Replacing Water Pump - 6 Cylinder Models.  (Read 1370 times)
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Pedro
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« on: March 24, 2006, 02:47:39 PM »

I think all sixes are the same (please correct me if I'm wrong!), so here goes.

Put in gear (or P if auto), apply handbrake.
Disconnect battery.
Raise front of car so you can get underneath it and make sure it's safe!
Drain coolant.
Remove radiator and shroud.
Remove fan. Mine has the allen key type, and is left hand thread, not sure about the two spanner jobbie.
Remove snake belt (easier to type that rather than 'serpentine'......D'OH!), by using 15mm spanner on tensioner centre bolt and turn in clockwise direction.
Remove inlet tract from airbox to throttle body for extra clearance.
Remove water pump pulley - mine were Torx, but my old 2.6 were ordinary hex bolts.
Disconnect alternator and remove - or IF YOU'RE CAREFUL, remove alternator and prop on another axle stand, box whatever. Doing this, be careful not to let it drop, cos the wires could break off, and it could get in the way of progress.
Undo the four 15mm bolts securing the power steering pump, and swing out of the way. No need to disconnect the pipes, as it doesn't need to be moved far. You'll see why when you get the fan off! One bolt that you can undo, but it's forty meters long and hits the tensioner pulley.........
Remove bottom pulley. 27mm socket, bloody tight! (Needs to be 90lbs/ft to re-tighten). Some might say to renew the bolt, but that's up to you - I haven't.
Slacken the water pump bolts 11mm socket, and remove old pump, noting the bolt positions.(I placed them in the corresponding hole in the new pump).
Make sure surfaces are very clean and using a gasket, blue sealant or both, fit the new pump, and just nip the bolts, then tighten bolts diagonally, but don't over-tighten, as some of them only go into cast ally.

As the HJB says, refitting of the components is reversal of removal (Don't we all just love that phrase?).

Now, check everything you have done - bolts tight, hose clips secure, terminals on alternator secure etc., and refill with water/antifreeze mix.
Connect battery and restart the car and allow to tick over, whilst checking for leaks with a torch.

Job's jobbed!

Takes about an hour and a half, but don't rush, and if you bugger a jubilee clip, don't be a pikey, get a new one!

Think that's it.

DISCLAIMER.

This is how I do it, and by no means is it a be-all and end-all. There might be a better way of doing it. If the car drops on you, then I can't and won't be held responsible - it simply means that you're a twerp for not making it safe to start with.

« Last Edit: March 24, 2006, 11:33:41 PM by Pedro » Logged

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Carltontoy
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« Reply #1 on: March 24, 2006, 08:17:18 PM »


I think all sixes are the same (please correct me if I'm wrong!), so here goes.

Put in gear (or P if auto), apply handbrake.
Disconnect battery.
Raise front of car so you can get underneath it and make sure it's safe!
Remove water pump pulley - mine were Torx, but my old 2.6 were ordinary hex bolts.
Disconnect alternator and remove - or IF YOU'RE CAREFUL, remove alternator and prop on another axle stand, box whatever. Doing this, be careful not to let it drop, cos the wires could break off, and it could get in the way of progress.
Undo the four 15mm bolts securing the power steering pump, and swing out of the way. No need to disconnect the pipes, as it doesn't need to be moved far. You'll see why when you get the fan off! One bolt that you can undo, but it's forty meters long and hits the tensioner pulley.........
Remove bottom pulley. 27mm socket, bloody tight! (Needs to be 90lbs/ft to re-tighten). Some might say to renew the bolt, but that's up to you - I haven't.
 says, refitting of the components is reversal of removal (Don't we all just love that phrase?).

Now, check everything you have done - bolts tight, hose clips secure, terminals on alternator secure etc., and refill with water/antifreeze mix.
Connect battery and restart the car and allow to tick over, whilst checking for leaks with a torch.

Job's jobbed!

Takes about an hour and a half, but don't rush, and if you bugger a jubilee clip, don't be a pikey, get a new one!

Think that's it.

DISCLAIMER.

This is how I do it, and by no means is it a be-all and end-all. There might be a better way of doing it. If the car drops on you, then I can't and won't be held responsible - it simply means that you're a twerp for not making it safe to start with.



NOT TO SHABBY PETE, BUT!! NO NEED TO REMOVE THE ALTERNATOR THE POWER STEERING OR THE CRaNK PULLEY!!!! had to shout cos thats a lot of extra work,
look at the crank pully and you will see its in 2 pieces, just undo the six torx bolts and remove the outer part after turning the engine so the big cutout is lined up with the cranks sensor aso you put it back in the same place!! then unddo all the water pump bolts and the jubilee clip and it just lifts off!!
had i known you hadnt done one before would have told you before sorry maste but well done anyway
 Cartlontoy
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Pedro
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« Reply #2 on: March 24, 2006, 11:39:44 PM »


Crank pulley was tight, but luckily, I have a huge tool in my arsenal! (150lbs/ft torque wrench).
I figured one bolt instead of six was a bit quicker, and the extra exertions kept my body temperature up a bit. It was damn cold and windy today, and the Vectra's stuck in my garage......

I couldn't remove the water pump housing bolt at say, 9 o'clock, I undid it, but tensioner pulley was in the way, even turning the pulley didn't help, so alternator and P/S pump seemed obvious - just an extra fifteen minutes removing and replacing. That particular bolt is longer than a long thing!
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Tetleysmooth
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« Reply #3 on: August 25, 2006, 10:43:10 AM »

I loosened off the four bolts which hold the the mounting bracket for the alternator and power steering pump.
You can then pull them away just far enough to pull that long water pump bolt out.
I also removed the crank pulley, but I dont remember it being a two piece. My previous Carlton 2.0 litre Dippy was though.
I re-fitted the old bolt, tightened it to 130 psi with threadlock.
Not a job I'd fancy doing again soon, but the car sounds lovely now it ain't got a growling water pump.
I also left the aircon rad out for extra cooling. I got stuck in a huge queue of traffic for the Dartford tunnel a couple of weeks back, and the temp didn't even reach halfway on the guage, although the heater is excellent.
This is for a 2.6 Dippy, BTW.
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Nils desparandum illegitimi carborundum.
Rusty Arches
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Dartford Kent


« Reply #4 on: December 09, 2010, 11:01:15 AM »

I need to replace the water pump in the senny (1989 12 valve)
it does not have the serpentine belt, but the other type (v belt ?)

Does anyone know the part number please.

There are 2 types and i dont want to get the wrong one.
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Its probably just a fuse
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