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Author Topic: GSI 12v starting problem (still)  (Read 2521 times)
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A3LTR
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« on: March 02, 2006, 04:39:29 PM »

here we go..
I've still got the starting problem, the car has had new plugs, rotor, dizzy, 2nd hand air meter, fuel supply appears OK, spark is OK, valve & ingnition timing OK, no air leaks, HT leads ok, fuel pump relay OK
this is getting a t**t to start...  Angry
It very rarely starts 1st click as is should Smiley, most of the time the engine will turn over for a good 5 - 10 seconds before it even attempts to fire up when the engine is either hot or cold..
If i've just turned the engine off and go to start it immediately it will start ok

got a mate to use a sykes pikavant diagnostic - ECU not talking, engine light not working at all, traced it back to a 3 pin connector under the bonnet (next to the criuse control unit) with nothing connected to it

HELP PLEASE ......    ANYBODY !!! 
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bstardchild
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« Reply #1 on: March 02, 2006, 05:56:15 PM »

here we go..
I've still got the starting problem, the car has had new plugs, rotor, dizzy, 2nd hand air meter, fuel supply appears OK, spark is OK, valve & ingnition timing OK, no air leaks, HT leads ok, fuel pump relay OK
this is getting a t**t to start...  Angry
It very rarely starts 1st click as is should Smiley, most of the time the engine will turn over for a good 5 - 10 seconds before it even attempts to fire up when the engine is either hot or cold..
If i've just turned the engine off and go to start it immediately it will start ok

Thats telling you something!!

Whats the cold starting like?

Why change the AFM? How do you know it's correctly calibrated?

Have you cleaned the ECU temp sensor at the very least or replaced it?

Whats the Gal/hr on the trip computer (hot engine tickover)?

got a mate to use a sykes pikavant diagnostic - ECU not talking, engine light not working at all, traced it back to a 3 pin connector under the bonnet (next to the criuse control unit) with nothing connected to it

Don't bother trying to fault code it - they don't have that facility!!!!

HELP PLEASE ......    ANYBODY !!! 

I'll wait for your reply to the above points
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Cheers

BC

"The Lotus Carlton is not tail happy – honestly -  as long as you accept it has 377 bhp and 419 lb/ft of torque, is rear drive and has no driver aids, it's fine."
A3LTR
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« Reply #2 on: March 03, 2006, 04:08:02 PM »

cold starting -  if the car has been stood for a couple of days, it will start immediately, if used on a daily basis it takes some time to start

Changed the AFM as I have heard these are prone to failure.. got it for 99p off ebay so not too bothered Smiley

havent changed the temp sensor.. but i have disconnected it (as if total failure), then started the engine the engine runs very badly so there is some signal from it.

Gal/hr is 0.2 on idle with engine hot.. Huh
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bstardchild
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« Reply #3 on: March 03, 2006, 04:23:34 PM »

cold starting -  if the car has been stood for a couple of days, it will start immediately, if used on a daily basis it takes some time to start

Hmmmm I wondered if the injectors are letting by flooding the chambers but I guess not

Changed the AFM as I have heard these are prone to failure.. got it for 99p off ebay so not too bothered Smiley

Bargain

havent changed the temp sensor.. but i have disconnected it (as if total failure), then started the engine the engine runs very badly so there is some signal from it.

It would do - 30 deg C so the ecu will throw all the fuel it can at it!!!

Gal/hr is 0.2 on idle with engine hot.. Huh

Lean as hell - way too lean thats a 24V figure in a hot day in summer

Target is 0.4 (occasionally dropping back to 0.3 but not for long)

AFM needs a tweak to richen it up a bit

Is the blanking plate on the idle bypass still there or has someone been playing with it?

Any help?
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Cheers

BC

"The Lotus Carlton is not tail happy – honestly -  as long as you accept it has 377 bhp and 419 lb/ft of torque, is rear drive and has no driver aids, it's fine."
A3LTR
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« Reply #4 on: March 03, 2006, 04:43:47 PM »

Changed the AFM as I have heard these are prone to failure.. got it for 99p off ebay so not too bothered Smiley

Bargain

got that and a full wiper motor mech too!   

Gal/hr is 0.2 on idle with engine hot.. Huh

Lean as hell - way too lean thats a 24V figure in a hot day in summer

Target is 0.4 (occasionally dropping back to 0.3 but not for long)

AFM needs a tweak to richen it up a bit

Is the blanking plate on the idle bypass still there or has someone been playing with it?

Any help?
Quote

are you referring to the blanking plate that is in the bypass Huh
also i think the trip computer is out abit, CO was 1.5 on the MOT...
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bstardchild
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« Reply #5 on: March 03, 2006, 05:06:09 PM »

are you referring to the blanking plate that is in the bypass Huh

Yeah round disc - near the rubber trunking on the AFM casing - it's a blanking plug hiding the fatory set allen key idle air bleed

also i think the trip computer is out abit,

They all are - but most are out the same thats why I can tell you a guide figure

CO was 1.5 on the MOT...

Sorry but - Doesn't mean jack........
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Cheers

BC

"The Lotus Carlton is not tail happy – honestly -  as long as you accept it has 377 bhp and 419 lb/ft of torque, is rear drive and has no driver aids, it's fine."
A3LTR
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« Reply #6 on: March 03, 2006, 05:10:33 PM »

are you referring to the blanking plate that is in the bypass Huh

Yeah round disc - near the rubber trunking on the AFM casing - it's a blanking plug hiding the fatory set allen key idle air bleed

the blanking plug is missing on both AFM's that ive got
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Diplo-Matt
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« Reply #7 on: March 03, 2006, 06:53:59 PM »

Interesting point on inst con's figure, my 2.6 always read 0.3, maybe sugesting it's running a bit lean then? heres one for ya, i had terrible cold starting problems eventually it wouldnt start at all, changed everything including crankshaft sensor, then i noticed the old sensor was well dinted, then i noticed a faint rummbling when i got it run for about 10 seconds, fault - loose bottom pully, could have caused serious damage if i hadnt spotted it! Cranshaft sensor couldnt get a reading because teeth on the wheel were constantly moving out of place. Probably not much help, but it had me head scratching for two months! My temprature sensor went also last year.
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bstardchild
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« Reply #8 on: March 03, 2006, 07:15:23 PM »

are you referring to the blanking plate that is in the bypass Huh

Yeah round disc - near the rubber trunking on the AFM casing - it's a blanking plug hiding the fatory set allen key idle air bleed

the blanking plug is missing on both AFM's that ive got

Then they've both been played with and who knows what they are set at now!!!
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Cheers

BC

"The Lotus Carlton is not tail happy – honestly -  as long as you accept it has 377 bhp and 419 lb/ft of torque, is rear drive and has no driver aids, it's fine."
A3LTR
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« Reply #9 on: March 04, 2006, 07:01:17 AM »

so if i tweak the AFM so that the Gal/hr is at 0.4, will that cure the starting problem ?
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bstardchild
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« Reply #10 on: March 04, 2006, 09:45:23 AM »

so if i tweak the AFM so that the Gal/hr is at 0.4, will that cure the starting problem ?

The idle bypass screw isn't a tweak it's a bodge - been adjusted to compensate for a worn spring in the AFM unit

It needs to be set back to factory setting and then the main spring needs to be adjusted by a couple of click to get the mixture right
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Cheers

BC

"The Lotus Carlton is not tail happy – honestly -  as long as you accept it has 377 bhp and 419 lb/ft of torque, is rear drive and has no driver aids, it's fine."
A3LTR
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« Reply #11 on: March 04, 2006, 12:10:14 PM »

the original AFM has been taken to bits before 'cos of the white silicone i found! the spring tension on both did feel different. The original was stronger than the replacement

I presume the tension should be stronger, but how strong ?

before I changed the AFM, I did notice after fitted a K&N 57i i could hear the AFM plate 'slapping' about within the meter...

I'll refit the old one and have a play aboooot!

Cheers for all ya help !
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A3LTR
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« Reply #12 on: April 29, 2007, 04:38:06 PM »

well I'd thought I would bring this topic back to life !!

yes, you've guessed it..  still got a starting problem and really starting to p*** me off

1. Fuel pressure ok
2. Fuel pump relay ok
3. good spark
4. good compression (approx 160 psi on all cyl's)
5. ign. timing ok
6. valve timing ok
7. new battery fitted
8. new plugs, rotor, dizzy cap fitted
9. 2nd hand AFM fitted
10. 2nd hand ECU fitted

does anyone have any ideas why the car will fire up ok first thing, once the engine has ran for a bit, switched off then left for about 10mins it's a git to start..
could it be the valves/hydraulic tappets ?

there is no octane plug, the EM light is not connected, diagnostics will only access faults for the ABS not the engine.

ANY IDEAS ANYONE Huh?                           PLEASE !!!!   
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Pedro
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« Reply #13 on: April 29, 2007, 04:48:46 PM »

Do you have a coolant temp sensor?

C20XE engines have issues with the CTS, and your symptoms sound the same.

Just re-ead the thread - been going on over a year, now!

« Last Edit: April 29, 2007, 04:51:24 PM by Pedro » Logged

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A3LTR
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« Reply #14 on: April 29, 2007, 05:05:19 PM »

yes the CTS has been changed too...
the cts was black so i replaced it with a black one but there is a blue one that fits these too..

does anyone on here have access to the build info for these cars,
i.e. what parts were fitted to it in the factory etc... i'm wondering if it has the wrong ecu fitted...
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A3LTR
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« Reply #15 on: April 29, 2007, 08:16:28 PM »

I know it's sunday but someone must have some idea !!    Cheesy
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Whippit
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« Reply #16 on: April 29, 2007, 08:42:52 PM »

The ECU for the C30NE should be Ident FQ for models up to Chassis No (Engine No?). L1019854 and GK for Higher
If its the 30NE then no letter code but the ECU should be code 0280001314
Least thats what EPC says
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A3LTR
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« Reply #17 on: April 29, 2007, 08:57:50 PM »

Quote from: Whippit
If its the 30NE then no letter code but the ECU should be code 0280001314
Least thats what EPC says
mine is the 30NE lump, well i've got 2 ecu's and a 3rd on its way from fleabay the 314 is ident FE..  no harm in having some spares !

SOMEONE MUST HAVE A BRAINWAVE !!!!

PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE !!!!   I BEG YOU  !!!!
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flash911
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« Reply #18 on: April 29, 2007, 09:03:32 PM »

sorry chap wish i couldhelp , but im useless lol
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A3LTR
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« Reply #19 on: April 29, 2007, 09:07:33 PM »

at least your honest   Smiley
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jonnybear
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« Reply #20 on: May 05, 2007, 08:01:37 AM »

LOL
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Pedro
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« Reply #21 on: May 05, 2007, 08:23:02 AM »

I've been reading through, and everything I've thought of has been covered.

Sometimes to win the war, you have to admit the odd defeat in battle, mate.

By that I mean get a good spannerman on the case..........
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chrismec
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« Reply #22 on: May 05, 2007, 12:27:38 PM »

Wise words Pete Smiley
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mrchaz
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« Reply #23 on: May 06, 2007, 08:05:15 AM »

As the 12v ECU has no way of being interogated you'll someone who has a wideband lambda kit that can check the exhaust gas and this will tell you wether it's lean or rich. You'll then be able to calibrate the spring tension on the AFM correctly.
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A3LTR
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IF ALL ELSE FAILS - HIT IT!!


« Reply #24 on: May 06, 2007, 06:14:41 PM »

at idle the CO is VERY low..  I think it was about 0.5ish

What is the ideal CO at idle ?  about 1.5-2.0 ? 
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