24v Engine Rebuild Progress

[Matt]

(Copied from the ABS forum)

Here's the progress so far:




Fully chemically cleaned
Full rebore to 3.1
New Mahle pistons/rings
Crankshaft polished
New mains shells
New big end shells
New core plugs
Painted in acid edge black
(That lot cost me £600 cash - mates rates (Pistons were £70 each alone!))

Just sent some more parts back to him to be cleaned/bead blasted and painted where necessary: (For free - mates rates again! )






Sump (Painted in silver)
Crank sensor wheel (just cleaned)
All brackets and stuff for the dual ram (blasted and painted in silver)
Pulley wheels (blasted and painted in black)
Earth strap (cleaned only)
Timing cover (Cleaned and painted silver

(PS - I forgot to pick up the cranks sensor wheel, that's why it's not in the pic!)

More pics:

Engine with oil pick-up attached (with gasket and bracket)


Sump with gasket attached - damn thats clean inside!


Yes I was a bit bored because I can't go any further, so I got the drill out with the wire wheel attached!


Engine with sump attached:


PS - I know now that the sump has to go on after the timing cover is in place, because the sump gasket seals the bottom of the timing cover. So the sump will have to come off again..... :roll:

It's all a big leaning curve for me, as this is the first engine rebuild I've ever done, let alone on a C30SE. People have commented on how quickly it's coming together, but to me it seems like it's taking forever!

Its gonna cost me about £1700 for the whole lot, but hopefully I should have an engine that will last me for a helluva long time, and should be rather powerful to boot!

[Matt]

Sorry about the pic qualilty again, I seem to have a knack of trying to use the digi cam with a dead battery, so I used my phone after the first one killed the battery on the digi cam...... :roll: I'll get some good pics up here one day, honest guv!


New gaskets from ABS member who has reproduced the NLS gaskets



Timing cover on, using blue hylomar on the gaskets, and silicone on the corner joins, like the haynes told me to.... Sump on too.

The timing cover and the sump came off and went back on again about 6 times, because of various reasons...... I did say it was my first time rebuilding an engine! The haynes trick of cable tying the chains in place meant that divvy here snipped it when the head was offered up and the snipped bit went down the timing case cover..... :oops: Cheers mr haynes! That was one of the various reasons.... :roll:

Anyway, all done - this was an early stage picture, before it came off again and again....



Head on, just whizzing up the head bolts here:
(The old feller taking the pics )



Tightening with torque wrench:



Then with the angle torque guide (bought specially for the job, bloody useful for that one job, but I doubt I'll be using it again! :roll:)




Head now torqued up, angled up, left for 10 mins, then angled again.
All exhaust studs in:



And the inlets, offering the injector manifold up with gaskets:



New primary tensioner in and torqued up:



Secondary tensioner in place, primed and all new bolts and guide pieces



And the (almost) finished article!



Flywheel work:
Here's how much we could take off the front:



and a slight skim off the back:



Not gonna make much difference, but it'll rev up a little quicker than before I hope.

[Matt]

Just sent some pieces off to the powdercoaters:

Rocker cover (with breather cover drilled off)
spark plug cover
DR twin pipes
Thermostat housing
Engine mounts
Altenator bracket
Lifting eye
Dizzy bracket
Plus other stuff

Most of the mounts and stuff will be satin black, but the rocker cover and DR pipes will be grey metallic powdercoat. (Steel 48 it's called.)

Just waiting for the ported inlet manifold from BC ()then that'll go for same treatment in steel 48.

[discojay]

Excellent stuff mate, i love a nice shiney looking c30se lol!!

will be starting my rebuild soon enough so it's great seing all these rebuilds , really get to know what the job entails !!!

 looking really good dude!!

[Pedro]

It looks like you're doing a good job there, Matt.

I've built a few 4 pot engines, but have not had a go at a 6.
Seems a bit daunting to me, I couldn't be arsed with cars for a good few years as all my good Snapped - Off tools got nicked a few years ago and I haven't been bothered to replace all of them, and most probably won't.
I understand the 24v is not a "cheap" engine - pricewise for parts, and that there's a lot of NLS items. So more power to your elbow, dude.

'Specially for your first engine rebuild!!!

[colonelk]

Nice work! Good to see a costing too, as Im tempted to get a 24v to have a 'play' with in the garage. Finally warming to it after all these years LOL 

It would be a much more basic one though! Hmmm, theres a question for you C30SE people....

What guide rebuild price you looking at for a C30SE if

a) you dont bother with doing things to make the block look bling
b) you dont need new pistons
c) you DO put in the better timing chains and new tensioner

ie just replacing the worn bits (bearings etc) and the liability (timing chain) to make a 'fresh' engine.

[chrismec]

Nice work Matt

Very very impressed

[Matt]

You can get one done to a good spec for about a grand.

Thing is, when you take the head off, you may as well change the CHG, then you may as well..... etc etc...

Check this page - RB's site: http://www.senator24v.co.uk/cost.htm

Those prices are a tad out of date, but it give you a good idea.

But basically:
The chains are £75 from BC
The CHG's are about £80?
the guides are £50 and £30 (from memory)
the top tensioner pieces are £14 from ABS
head bolts need replacing

etc etc

But with anything, sod's law says that you'll be kicking yourself if you didn't bother with one little thing that costs about £50 that manages to fook your engine 400 miles later, then all the hard work and good money has gone down the drain...

That's why I'm spending lots of money on this rebuild - I want it to last another 200k miles!

[bstardchild]

Hmmm, theres a question for you C30SE people....

What guide rebuild price you looking at for a C30SE if

a) you dont bother with doing things to make the block look bling
b) you dont need new pistons
c) you DO put in the better timing chains and new tensioner

ie just replacing the worn bits (bearings etc) and the liability (timing chain) to make a 'fresh' engine.

Head refurb/overhaul New rings timing chains and tensioners - should stay inside £900 budget

Hmm that sounds a lot but I reckon it's pretty close

[2PAC]

I have a satin black 24V cover with polished centre,

Anyone interested?

[colonelk]

cheers for the info dudes, I know theres things that have to be done, and theres also some that dont really have to be done etc. £900 sounds like a decent parts price for a full rebuild.

[bstardchild]

cheers for the info dudes, I know theres things that have to be done, and theres also some that dont really have to be done etc. £900 sounds like a decent parts price for a full rebuild.

Big chunk of that cost is Parts and labour for a decent head job

[colonelk]

yeah but i cant do headwork myself

[Matt]

Just gonna "do a marshy" here......

Gonna have a few bits powdercoated:


This lot has now been sent to a local firm for gritblasting and powdercoating.

The cam cover has had the breather cover drilled out (imperitive this is done otherwisethe grit from the blasting will get stuck under the cover and fook up the engine when refitted.

Cam cover, spark plug cover and DR pipes will be "Steel 48" which is a kind of metallic grey/silver/gunmetal colour. Very similar to the colour of the car itself.
Everything else will be satin black
Apart from the exhaust manifolds which will be just blasted and I'll paint them with sperex or summat.

I'm sure I won't be using the spark plug cover, but I thought I'd get it done anyway as I had plenty of spares.

I'm just now waiting for them to get back to me when they're done and also waiting for the new inlet manifold from BC which has been ported to match the bored out injector manifold and the head ports, then that will go for the same treatment of a coat of steel 48!

A couple of other bits still needed, like O-rings and oil seals and stuff, but then that's it, it should be all done!

[bstardchild]

Trust me on this Matt...........

- You need to put sacrificial bolts in all the holes to save the threads from being damaged by blasting and also to stop them being filled up with powder coating or you will be spending a long while with a set of taps and the powder coat is bloody tough stuff!!!!

[Matt]

Ah shite....

looks like I'll be tapping some stuff soon then.

[bstardchild]

Even more importantly - you need a sacrificial Dual ram flap - if you get powder in there it's a bugger to get rid off to make the flap work smoothly!!!!

I know I did it wrong once - never again!

[Matt]

Yeah, got one of them... It'll die for a worthy cause

When can I get the inlet manifold then mate?

[bstardchild]

Yeah, got one of them... It'll die for a worthy cause

When can I get the inlet manifold then mate?

When the scaffolding isn't blocking access to my garage 

[Matt]

OK, ta.....

Will it be OK with a standard one for now I take it?

If I put a standard one on it and then change it will I have to replace the injector manifold O-rings again?

[2PAC]

Sure I have a set of o rings.

In fact a complete headset.................

[bstardchild]

Sure I have a set of o rings.

In fact a complete headset.................

Reinz Gasket?

[2PAC]

WTF  a reinz gasket???

[bstardchild]

WTF  a reinz gasket???

In you complete headset - I'm sure you have a gasket - if it's a good one it will have Victor Reinz printed diagonally accross it - if it's got anything else on it it'll give problems

[2PAC]

BGA........??


i'VE USED THESE FOR YEARS AND NEVER HAD PROBLEMS


oops caps lock