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Author Topic: Brake caliper piston wind back kit  (Read 344 times)
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therealeasterbunny
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« on: November 26, 2011, 09:50:57 AM »

The time has come for me to change my brake pads again.

Before, I used push the pistons back with a couple of lage spanners but I am now getting old and frail and have no wish to be hospitalised by struggling any futher from what I remember last time it was quite an effort ending in blood, sweat and tears.

However, my friend says there are such things as wind back kits and that on my pistons there will be locators where the piston bits "rotate" back down into the caliper. Who knew?! Everyone but me apparently. I thought they just went back in straight.

Anyway, I've had a rummage in this forum for "wind back" and "windback" to see if there are any posts related to winding back pistons but there's not much - only related to windows.

Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced "wind back" tool which will work with a 2.0L Carlton?

I will do a "how to" with piccies when I do it for future use. Smiley

I will also include a drop links bit too and a disc bit as I will be doing these at the same time if I can swap them from my other Carlton. Incidentally - its just a single bolt holding the from discs on, am I correct? (My Haynes JB got soaked recently and had to throw it away - need to get another off ebay).

Thank you x
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melinx
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« Reply #1 on: November 26, 2011, 10:57:52 AM »

There is no mention of being able to wind back the pistons in the TIS instructions; there is a fairly hefty looking tool that they show called a piston pusher.

Is it possible to get a 'G' clamp on ? if so slip an old brake pad into one side to prevent that piston coming further out; compress, slip in the new pad and repeat for the other side.

The force needed will probably be considerably reduced if you unscrew the bleed nipple.
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Dave the Builder
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« Reply #2 on: November 26, 2011, 01:09:54 PM »

Wind back tools / rotating the piston is on newer brake systems
usually where the back brake pistons are linked to the hand-brake linkages
(the hand-brake links pushes the piston  ,pushing the pads on to the discs)
carlton have seperate brake shoes inside the rear disc.
a 2 leg puller and a couple of sockets work or as Merlinx says "'G' clamp "
you could buy a wind back kit ,but it's not needed if you improvise.
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Johnny A
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« Reply #3 on: November 26, 2011, 02:30:49 PM »

G clamp or a vice
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therealeasterbunny
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« Reply #4 on: November 26, 2011, 03:21:14 PM »

Thanks chaps. I think I have a G clamp under my bench in the garage. I will have a go. The reason I thought it would rotate is that my pistons have two notches in them and when I said to my friend he said it was probably a windy piston. I'll have a stab with the G clamp. Many thanks.
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melinx
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« Reply #5 on: November 26, 2011, 03:29:23 PM »

TIS says that if the pistons have recesses, "ensure that they are in the horizontal position"
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carlton_mad
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« Reply #6 on: November 26, 2011, 07:56:25 PM »

try this!!

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht268-disc-brake-piston-spreader
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The Duke
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« Reply #7 on: November 26, 2011, 08:01:36 PM »


I'd recommend that as well, I've got one, used it many times, excellent tool.
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g4rth
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« Reply #8 on: November 27, 2011, 10:30:33 PM »

i used an old socket...a little smaller than the piston, and ground slots in it to fit the cutouts in the piston...
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chris
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« Reply #9 on: November 28, 2011, 11:53:06 PM »

G clamp works for me.
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therealeasterbunny
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« Reply #10 on: February 11, 2012, 03:02:53 PM »

Hi guys, just a bit of feedback.

Finally did the brakes.

-3 degrees vs "growling when braking" for the first time yesterday = get arse into gear.

I was going to do it early Dec then stuff came along which demanded my attention.

Luckily the discs were OK with only the slightest of scratching on one side.

Anyway I used my G-Clamp (and when I say G Clamp I mean beastly G Clamp - I forgot it was 3 foot long) and apart from the maneouvering of the heavy g-clamp itself, once on, the pistons went back a dream - within 20 seconds of easing each side.

Great stuff.

Anyway, thanks for the advice.

A few pics ...



Getting at the good brakepads on spare car. - Removing caliper is through 2x allen keys "behind" the caliper (first remove the spring at the front (not shown in true haynes fashion) and then remove the plastic top covers with a small flat blade screwdriver to access the allen key bolts. Note allen key sticking out of rear. The other allen key bolt is about 3 inches down. Of course all you chaps know this already but what the heck Smiley )






My unfeasibly large but very useful g-clamp in position. 20 seconds later it had owned the piston.


Thanks again chaps.
« Last Edit: February 11, 2012, 03:05:48 PM by therealeasterbunny » Logged

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Dave the Builder
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« Reply #11 on: February 11, 2012, 04:28:43 PM »

Good work
Your "G clamp" is a "sash clamp" by the way  Wink
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therealeasterbunny
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« Reply #12 on: February 11, 2012, 05:49:51 PM »

Cheers Smiley

And thanks for the clarification on the clamp name. I'm a computer chap by trade so all fuzzy on big tool names Smiley

It was left in the garage by the previous owners I bought the house off - the chap was a builder / joiner Smiley - Was going to bin it a couple of years ago but it now stays Smiley
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bootie3367
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« Reply #13 on: February 12, 2012, 03:51:40 PM »

Talking of changing brake pads.

Here's what we have been doing the last couple of nights.

Long distance shot of the anchor winch


Cover over brake disc which acts as a water reservoir for cooling when running


Cover removed to expose the calipers and disc


4 x 6 pot calipers per disc which is in 4 segments


As the water cooling is salt water the calipers take a fair bit of punishment resulting in


Also the brake pads do wear with use, I think these have lasted for 4 rig moves, I could be wrong though.


Compare to a new pad


and a refurbished caliper with new seals (all done on the rig)


Here's the back end of the winch


We use wire 3.75" diameter and chain 3.5" diameter combination. 750m of chain goes out first, then connection to the wire. We have 3500m of wire on the storage winches below the main deck.
When the chain is run out it goes at approx. 25m per minute, when the wire runs out it goes at 90m minute.
All this is done with an anchor handling boat pulling and we control the speed with the brakes using hydraulic pressure, you can imagine the heat build up there, hence the cooling water.
When we are in deepwater, the anchor boat is sometimes pulling over 100t to make sure all the chain and wire is laid out straight.

Just a little insight into some of the work I do.

Jon

PS. We couldn't find a wind back tool big enough!
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melinx
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« Reply #14 on: February 12, 2012, 04:44:20 PM »

PS. We couldn't find a wind back tool big enough!

Had you known, I reckon that you could have had the one therealeasterbunny used flown out Grin

When I suggested a 'G' clamp to him I envisaged something about 6" long  Roll Eyes
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therealeasterbunny
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« Reply #15 on: February 12, 2012, 07:48:36 PM »

Talking of changing brake pads.
Here's what we have been doing the last couple of nights.
[...]
Just a little insight into some of the work I do.

Yikes! Heavens above!!! Monster kit!
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