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Author Topic: I really really hate electrics...  (Read 686 times)
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DevonGSi
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« on: November 18, 2010, 06:27:36 PM »

Why am I getting fault code 48?  The volt meter doofa is reading above 13 volts...

Any ideas?

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melinx
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« Reply #1 on: November 18, 2010, 06:37:59 PM »

Where are you reading the Voltage ?

Maybe there is a bad earth somewhere causing the ECU to sense a low voltage Undecided
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DevonGSi
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« Reply #2 on: November 18, 2010, 06:52:05 PM »

the gay digital dash one. my multimeter has stopped working...
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melinx
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« Reply #3 on: November 18, 2010, 07:36:09 PM »

It looks like you're having a bad day Sad

Have you cleaned up the earths on the back of the inlet manifold as recommended by Von Opel ?

« Last Edit: November 18, 2010, 07:38:09 PM by melinx » Logged
DevonGSi
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« Reply #4 on: November 18, 2010, 11:01:44 PM »

Yep and it was good was about a day...

I have swapped the ECU's and the fault light has stopped coming on. Well for the 10 mins I took it for a spin. We will see tomorrow.

I am getting a new battery too.  Im sure the 540 CCA battery is too small so found a Numax 096 72ah 650CCA one for £55, which I think is a good price.

I did get the multimeter working and put the +ve on the battery and then all around the engine bay. 14.50 to 14.65 volts. But when not running the batter was 12.3v so I think a cell has popped its clogs.
« Last Edit: November 19, 2010, 11:15:42 AM by DevonGSi » Logged

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DevonGSi
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« Reply #5 on: November 19, 2010, 09:22:51 AM »

Well...

The 15 mile drive to work was very uneventful!!  No EML. Volts only dropped to 12V when I had the fan, rear window demist, fogs and head lights on...Does anyone elses drop like this?

Still getting a new battery tho!
« Last Edit: November 19, 2010, 11:15:15 AM by DevonGSi » Logged

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doz
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« Reply #6 on: November 19, 2010, 11:00:09 AM »

TBH honest mine is just over 12 with all the gubbins switched on and I don't get any issues.
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DevonGSi
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« Reply #7 on: November 19, 2010, 09:08:35 PM »

Oh and I cleaned all the realys in the box behind the passenger side suspension turret and swapped out the big one near to the bonnet alarm switch. Fuel pump relay?

Anyway all seems cool at the moment.
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Pedro
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« Reply #8 on: November 19, 2010, 11:03:57 PM »

Sounds familiar - mine was sorted with a new battery.
But get your current battery checked first, or try before you buy - just so you don't splash out on a battery if you don't need to! Wink



See what I did there? Current, batt...oh never mind! Grin
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DevonGSi
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« Reply #9 on: November 19, 2010, 11:34:34 PM »

It did make me laugh....well I say laugh, chuckle. Well I say chuckle....
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Pedro
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« Reply #10 on: November 20, 2010, 09:45:18 AM »

It did make me laugh....well I say laugh, chuckle. Well I say chuckle....

To me...to you...to me..........

When I bought my new 'un, the guy showed me that although there was indeed 14V on my old 'un, there was bugger-all power (amps) and this pointed to a dead cell.
fitted new un to the car to see if there was any difference, which there was.

Just to point out - I got one for a V6 Omega - spins the engine over alot better due to the Cold Cranking Amperage (660CCA I think) compared to the 'Vauxhall recommended' Carlton 3.0 battery of 400ish (IIRC).
Much better! Wink
« Last Edit: November 20, 2010, 03:04:42 PM by Pedro » Logged

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melinx
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« Reply #11 on: November 20, 2010, 09:46:36 AM »

A fully charged battery in good condition should be 12.6 volts after it has been off charge for a short while; yours doesn't seem too far below that at 12.3 !

A good check is to watch the Voltage at the battery terminals during a cold start, it should not fall below 12 volts (11.5 at worst)
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DevonGSi
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« Reply #12 on: November 23, 2010, 10:31:55 PM »

I think the battery is foobared!

I drove it yesterday. No problems at all!  Then a cold snap, flat battery this morning. just not enough oomph to turn it over fast enough.  Still should get it tested tho I guess...
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Pedro
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« Reply #13 on: November 23, 2010, 11:10:12 PM »

I think the battery is foobared!

I drove it yesterday. No problems at all!  Then a cold snap, flat battery this morning. just not enough oomph to turn it over fast enough.  Still should get it tested tho I guess...

Definite cooked cell, mate.
Voltage will register fine, but it's the amps that  turn the engine, and a cooked cell will reduce the effective amperage by one helluva lot!
Had two years - of this thinking it couldn't be the 'new' battery, but it was! Wink
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DevonGSi
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« Reply #14 on: November 23, 2010, 11:26:37 PM »

Looks like I will be getting that Numax 096 jobby on the weekend!
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chris
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« Reply #15 on: November 24, 2010, 10:32:24 PM »

[Had two years - of this thinking it couldn't be the 'new' battery, but it was! Wink

Ive been there too.

Once I had eventually worked out that it could only be the battery and proving this by using one from another car while monitoring the "new" one reduce in voltage while sat in the house with no drain I then had the long task of convincing the dealer that it was the battery.

They tested it with their vintage drop tester and wouldnt consider anything other than the result it gave which was OK.

I spoke to the tech department of the the battery manufacturer explaining my testing and they confirmed that I was correct, commenting that a drop tester doesnt show up all battery faults.

The numpty dealer (who I no longer use) couldnt comprehend that a customer might know more than them or be right and still refused to exchange until he had consulted his supplier in person.

Sorry for the long story, I get wound up about the months of car trouble I had needlessly because they told me that the battery was fine and the time it was off the road completely because they wanted the old one but wouldnt give me the new one.

 Angry
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carlton_mad
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« Reply #16 on: November 24, 2010, 10:47:40 PM »

Looks like I will be getting that Numax 096 jobby on the weekend!
try your vaux dealer exide 096 £36.99+ trade gotta be worth a go!!
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