Got a carlton!

[Insight]

It's colon elk's brother here.

We got our 2.0l L reg Carlton CDX estate yesterday evening.

It has a few small issues but generally seems to be a good basic runabout that we don't care if we kill or get grubby.

Even better, my bro has LOTs of spares for them and knows how to fix them! No rust in the usual places either apparently!

[Pedro]

Good work, fella. 


Is Mark still alive?

[Dave the Builder]

congrats mark's bro
so what issues does it have ?

[Mitch1965]

Hello colon elk's bro!! ya should know the score by now,, piccies!!

[Murph]

Tis the one from Blackfen is it not James?

[Insight]

Aye it is the one from Blackfen, and it's a K reg... lol!

Mark is indeed still alive

Issues noticed so far:

• Buzzy exhaust at a certain rpm (very low, just as you set off)
• Rubber trim along sill of rear off side door loose
• Speedo needle sometimes sticks at 30 and releases at 35 - 40...
• Dodgy coolant level sensor
• Central locking borked
• Paint lacquer peeling a bit in some places
• Needs cam belt change
• Radio turns off stations it doesn't want to listen to

Bodywork seems otherwise in surprising condition according to the colon.

Will sort some piccies for you at some point, had a bit of a mental weekend and didn't get to take any.

Cheers,
James

[man of kent]

Was this the one next to Carlton Mads garage on a dealer forecourt? Had a look myself but wanted an auto. Nice clean interior. Had a stuck tappet when I saw it. Get some new thin oil in it.

[Jimmy]

hello mate, u made no mistake in buying a carlton, lovely cars, dodgy nowadays, but thts the fun in having older cars. i didnt like the phrase 'didnt mind if you kill em', we buy these cars so tht thy can live on, but in some respect, know what you mean.lol, but take care of her, and thank god for your bro, he will educate you in the ways of Carly's. ha ha ha

JimmyVaux

[Insight]

pics!







Thanks for the tip on the tappit... will get that sorted!

I believe it was that one, although didn't realise it was carlton_mad!

We knocked him down on price pretty well too. Doesn't seem a bad car for the money!

[melinx]

Looks far too good just to hammer into the ground

For what it's worth; I've had hydraulic tappet problems : ---

http://totalcarlton.com/forums/index.php/topic,10086.msg80904.html#msg80904

However, the mechanic at the garage I use had a 2 litre Carlton with tappet problems some 3 years ago and the remedy he used rather made me cringe, but he reckons that his daughter is still using the car without problems.

He put in some FORTE top end treatment and held the engine at 5000 RPM for about 30 minutes and it completely freed up the hydraulic lifters.

I've used FORTE with my normal gentle driving without useful results

[Insight]

My brother noticed this tappit issue apparently, the car had been sat there for ages without being started. Once it had been going a few minutes it had freed itself and has been quiet since. We'll do an oil change though when we do the other essentials on it.

[Dave the Builder]

don't go mad buying expensive oil,15/50 20/50 mineral works well in the 2 litre IMHO if changed regular

[man of kent]

If you have a tight engine its best to use the modern thin oils such as 10w/40. They offer better protection than the old 20W/50. 10 means its thin in the cold and 40 when hot running down a motorway. The first multigrade developed was 10W/30 and as lots of Ford owners found the 30 was too thin on the new motorways back in the 60's which is why they went to 20W/50. However the new 10W/40 provides protection right up the range. 1950's & 1960's classics have bigger bearing clearances so 20W/50 is better although 10W40 is good on a new engine for a while.
The only time you should move to a higher grade such as 20W/50 is when the engine is very worn and you want to fill up the bearing gaps! An old trick years ago was to put in straight 30 grade to stop any knocks!
Another intertesting fact is that you should not change the oil too frequently as the engine may never bed in and you finish up with glazed bores. Just change as recommended by the manufacturers.
Modern engines are so tight that quite often they recommend 5W/30. I go to 10W/40 after about 40,000 miles and 20W/50 well over 100,000 miles.
The only real difference between cheap oil and expensive oil is that there are more polymer modifiers in expensive oil, hence they last longer. Synthetic oils do not really where out, they just get dirty hence long periods before changing and big oil filters.

[Jimmy]

15/40w in mine, always

[carlton_mad]

my engine runs on 15/40 so its 20/50 all the way for me!!

[Jimmy]

my engine runs on 15/40 so its 20/50 all the way for me!!

i got a big tub 5L of mobil 1 M, if you still good for sat Chris??? i got a new oil filter aswell. iv been having to walk verywhere or borrowing my mums astra, got my GF's Ford KA, ha ha thts a laugh